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Groups > sci.electronics.design > #453060 > unrolled thread

ot drilling glass

Started byJohn Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>
First post2017-03-22 10:18 -0700
Last post2017-03-24 09:04 -0700
Articles 20 on this page of 109 — 22 participants

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Contents

  ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 10:18 -0700
    Re: ot drilling glass Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net> - 2017-03-22 10:32 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 11:23 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:28 -0500
          Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:35 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:15 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:31 -0500
          Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:44 -0700
            Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 16:22 -0500
          Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:37 -0700
            Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 22:25 -0400
              Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 20:06 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:06 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 13:13 -0400
            Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 19:56 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 20:24 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:07 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 22:54 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-23 04:50 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass jurb6006@gmail.com - 2017-03-22 13:24 -0700
          Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 17:11 -0400
          Re: ot drilling glass amdx <nojunk@knology.net> - 2017-03-22 16:17 -0500
        Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 15:36 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass gregz <zekor@comcast.net> - 2017-03-24 07:55 +0000
          Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-24 22:50 -0400
      Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:26 -0500
        Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:49 -0700
          Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:41 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> - 2017-03-22 19:45 -0800
    Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 13:37 -0400
      Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 10:56 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 11:29 -0700
          Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:23 -0700
            Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 13:34 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 14:23 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:50 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkinxyxy@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-24 10:45 -0700
                  Re: ot drilling glass Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> - 2017-03-25 18:22 +1100
                    Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-25 08:53 -0700
                      Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-25 13:05 -0400
                        Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-25 16:18 -0700
                          Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-25 20:40 -0400
                            Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:07 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-26 20:09 -0400
                                Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 17:43 -0700
                                  Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-26 20:50 -0400
                      Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-25 16:17 -0700
                        Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-25 20:12 -0700
                          Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 04:39 -0700
                            Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-26 05:17 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 06:03 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-26 09:15 -0700
                                  Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 10:54 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-26 18:43 -0700
                                  Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-27 19:21 -0700
                                    Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-28 09:30 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> - 2017-03-27 08:11 +1100
                              Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 06:45 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-28 08:08 -0700
                                  Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 08:48 -0700
                          Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:08 -0700
                            Re: ot drilling glass Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2017-03-26 16:16 -0400
                          Re: ot drilling glass Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> - 2017-03-26 22:10 +0300
                            Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 06:58 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-28 07:18 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 08:41 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-28 08:13 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-28 16:52 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 19:52 -0700
                                  Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-28 20:35 -0700
                        Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 04:44 -0700
                          Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:10 -0700
                            Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 09:37 -0700
                              Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 10:58 -0700
                                Re: ot drilling glass Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2017-03-26 16:18 -0400
                                  Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 17:42 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 20:12 -0400
          Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 17:24 -0700
            Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 20:46 -0400
              Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:14 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 22:58 -0700
                Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 13:15 -0400
                  Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-23 12:10 -0700
                    Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 15:28 -0400
                      Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-23 14:06 -0700
                        Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 20:48 -0400
                          Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-23 18:05 -0700
                      Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 20:31 -0400
                Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 15:25 -0400
                  Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-23 17:37 -0700
    Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 13:44 -0400
    Re: ot drilling glass Kevin Glover <kevinfglover@yahoo.com> - 2017-03-22 11:22 -0700
    Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 11:44 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 15:07 -0400
        Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-22 12:19 -0700
          Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 15:51 -0400
            Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-22 13:58 -0700
              Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 17:05 -0400
                Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 16:26 -0500
                  Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 18:00 -0400
      Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:30 -0700
        Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:29 -0700
          Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:16 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> - 2017-03-22 21:36 +0200
        Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:54 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:39 -0500
    Re: ot drilling glass alan.yeager.2013@gmail.com - 2017-03-23 18:07 -0700
    Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-24 04:20 -0700
      Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-24 09:04 -0700

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#453202

FromJohn Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
Date2017-03-22 22:58 -0700
Message-ID<2vudnbcJU4V1_k7FnZ2dnUU7-VudnZ2d@giganews.com>
In reply to#453187
On 2017/03/22 9:14 PM, John Larkin wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows need
>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>
>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>
>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>
>>> Except that I haven't.
>>
>> yet.
>
> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.

Hence a suggestion to plug the hole, or perhaps use a filter to keep 
dust and critters out.

>
> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
>
>

Condensation will ruin the R value of the window, so drilling a vent 
hole can't hurt for improving efficiency! Unless the glass breaks.

John

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#453242

Fromkrw@notreal.com
Date2017-03-23 13:15 -0400
Message-ID<kj08dch6sqomorpukh1kc064jlpjlrps4h@4ax.com>
In reply to#453187
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>><jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>><jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>><jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>>inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows need
>>>>>>to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>
>>>>>Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>
>>>>And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>
>>>Except that I haven't.
>>
>>yet.
>
>Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
>condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
>Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
>
>Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
>than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.

If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
fog again.

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#453251

FromJohn Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
Date2017-03-23 12:10 -0700
Message-ID<PrmdnTYYhPpcgEnFnZ2dnUU7-TXNnZ2d@giganews.com>
In reply to#453242
On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows need
>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>>
>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>>
>>>> Except that I haven't.
>>>
>>> yet.
>>
>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
>>
>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
>
> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
> fog again.
>

I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of 
years?) solution then this may get one by.

Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have 
a terrible R number!

John

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#453256

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-23 15:28 -0400
Message-ID<ob17fk$bc9$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453251
On 3/23/2017 3:10 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows
>>>>>>>> need
>>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>>>
>>>>> Except that I haven't.
>>>>
>>>> yet.
>>>
>>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
>>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
>>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
>>>
>>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
>>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
>>
>> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
>> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
>> fog again.
>>
>
> I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of
> years?) solution then this may get one by.
>
> Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have
> a terrible R number!

Not sure what "terrible" is, but it will still be *much* better than 
single pane glass.  There is still the largely immobile vapor barrier. 
Windows pretty well suck as thermal insulation anyway, no matter how 
good they are.  Pay someone $500 to take thermal images of your house 
and you will see the lion's share of heat loss is through the windows. 
That's why I shudder at houses with walls of glass.

An uncle was in the heating and cooling business.  He pointed out how 
impractical it was to pay lots of money for good insulation in walls and 
ceilings only to cut big holes in them to let the heat out!

-- 

Rick C

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#453263

FromLasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk>
Date2017-03-23 14:06 -0700
Message-ID<f6e50748-0931-44cb-9a3b-e1b881a84286@googlegroups.com>
In reply to#453256
Den torsdag den 23. marts 2017 kl. 20.28.39 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> On 3/23/2017 3:10 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> > On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
> >> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> >>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows
> >>>>>>>> need
> >>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Except that I haven't.
> >>>>
> >>>> yet.
> >>>
> >>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
> >>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
> >>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
> >>>
> >>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
> >>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
> >>
> >> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
> >> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
> >> fog again.
> >>
> >
> > I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of
> > years?) solution then this may get one by.
> >
> > Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have
> > a terrible R number!
> 
> Not sure what "terrible" is, but it will still be *much* better than 
> single pane glass.  There is still the largely immobile vapor barrier. 
> Windows pretty well suck as thermal insulation anyway, no matter how 
> good they are.  Pay someone $500 to take thermal images of your house 
> and you will see the lion's share of heat loss is through the windows. 
> That's why I shudder at houses with walls of glass.
> 
> An uncle was in the heating and cooling business.  He pointed out how 
> impractical it was to pay lots of money for good insulation in walls and 
> ceilings only to cut big holes in them to let the heat out!
> 

I'd expect that to be much bigger issue for cooling than heating
modern windows are less than 1W/m2K. even when it is really cold 
that doesn't add up to much compared to ~1kW per square meter 
sun mid day in the summer


-Lasse

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#453305

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-23 20:48 -0400
Message-ID<ob1q7a$c0m$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453263
On 3/23/2017 5:06 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
> Den torsdag den 23. marts 2017 kl. 20.28.39 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
>> On 3/23/2017 3:10 PM, John Robertson wrote:
>>> On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows
>>>>>>>>>> need
>>>>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Except that I haven't.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> yet.
>>>>>
>>>>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
>>>>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
>>>>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
>>>>>
>>>>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
>>>>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
>>>>
>>>> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
>>>> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
>>>> fog again.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of
>>> years?) solution then this may get one by.
>>>
>>> Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have
>>> a terrible R number!
>>
>> Not sure what "terrible" is, but it will still be *much* better than
>> single pane glass.  There is still the largely immobile vapor barrier.
>> Windows pretty well suck as thermal insulation anyway, no matter how
>> good they are.  Pay someone $500 to take thermal images of your house
>> and you will see the lion's share of heat loss is through the windows.
>> That's why I shudder at houses with walls of glass.
>>
>> An uncle was in the heating and cooling business.  He pointed out how
>> impractical it was to pay lots of money for good insulation in walls and
>> ceilings only to cut big holes in them to let the heat out!
>>
>
> I'd expect that to be much bigger issue for cooling than heating
> modern windows are less than 1W/m2K. even when it is really cold
> that doesn't add up to much compared to ~1kW per square meter
> sun mid day in the summer

I'm not sure how the two numbers are related.  The issue is 1 W/m^2 vs X 
W/m^2 for insulated walls!  Comparing the numbers you do makes an 
assumption that the sun is shining in the window and being converted to 
heat.  There are many simple ways to improve that issue including having 
trees outside or white lined drapes inside.  Regardless of how cooling 
effects are mitigated or not, I think it is still a very significant 
issue for heating.

-- 

Rick C

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#453311

FromLasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk>
Date2017-03-23 18:05 -0700
Message-ID<38331571-5eff-462e-bca3-6ad343214b8d@googlegroups.com>
In reply to#453305
Den fredag den 24. marts 2017 kl. 01.48.28 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> On 3/23/2017 5:06 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
> > Den torsdag den 23. marts 2017 kl. 20.28.39 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> >> On 3/23/2017 3:10 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> >>> On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> >>>>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows
> >>>>>>>>>> need
> >>>>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Except that I haven't.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> yet.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
> >>>>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
> >>>>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
> >>>>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
> >>>>
> >>>> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
> >>>> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
> >>>> fog again.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of
> >>> years?) solution then this may get one by.
> >>>
> >>> Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have
> >>> a terrible R number!
> >>
> >> Not sure what "terrible" is, but it will still be *much* better than
> >> single pane glass.  There is still the largely immobile vapor barrier.
> >> Windows pretty well suck as thermal insulation anyway, no matter how
> >> good they are.  Pay someone $500 to take thermal images of your house
> >> and you will see the lion's share of heat loss is through the windows.
> >> That's why I shudder at houses with walls of glass.
> >>
> >> An uncle was in the heating and cooling business.  He pointed out how
> >> impractical it was to pay lots of money for good insulation in walls and
> >> ceilings only to cut big holes in them to let the heat out!
> >>
> >
> > I'd expect that to be much bigger issue for cooling than heating
> > modern windows are less than 1W/m2K. even when it is really cold
> > that doesn't add up to much compared to ~1kW per square meter
> > sun mid day in the summer
> 
> I'm not sure how the two numbers are related.  The issue is 1 W/m^2 vs X 
> W/m^2 for insulated walls!  Comparing the numbers you do makes an 
> assumption that the sun is shining in the window and being converted to 
> heat.  There are many simple ways to improve that issue including having 
> trees outside or white lined drapes inside.  Regardless of how cooling 
> effects are mitigated or not, I think it is still a very significant 
> issue for heating.

compare 1W/m2k to this:

https://j18blog.files.wordpress.com/2010/04/typical-u-values1.jpg

 

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#453297

Fromkrw@notreal.com
Date2017-03-23 20:31 -0400
Message-ID<12q8dc1kjf5lgnsirhvhnh1ao7363qeldv@4ax.com>
In reply to#453256
On Thu, 23 Mar 2017 15:28:33 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:

>On 3/23/2017 3:10 PM, John Robertson wrote:
>> On 2017/03/23 10:15 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:14:09 -0700, John Larkin
>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows
>>>>>>>>> need
>>>>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Except that I haven't.
>>>>>
>>>>> yet.
>>>>
>>>> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
>>>> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
>>>> Well, one tiny spider got inside one, from the outside.
>>>>
>>>> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
>>>> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
>>>
>>> If the moisture got in there because of a failed seal, you've just
>>> added to the "failure".  Under the right (wrong) conditions, it *will*
>>> fog again.
>>>
>>
>> I agree, however if one is looking for a temporary (perhaps a couple of
>> years?) solution then this may get one by.
>>
>> Certainly a double glazed window with moisture trapped inside will have
>> a terrible R number!
>
>Not sure what "terrible" is, but it will still be *much* better than 
>single pane glass.  There is still the largely immobile vapor barrier. 
>Windows pretty well suck as thermal insulation anyway, no matter how 
>good they are. 

Making them even worse isn't a good plan.  I thought you were a
greenie?

>Pay someone $500 to take thermal images of your house 
>and you will see the lion's share of heat loss is through the windows. 
>That's why I shudder at houses with walls of glass.
>
>An uncle was in the heating and cooling business.  He pointed out how 
>impractical it was to pay lots of money for good insulation in walls and 
>ceilings only to cut big holes in them to let the heat out!

You can live in a cave but normal people don't like it.  We had an
apartment for nine months a few years back that was like your dream
house.  It *really* sucked not having decent natural light.

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#453252

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-23 15:25 -0400
Message-ID<ob1794$amb$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453187
On 3/23/2017 12:14 AM, John Larkin wrote:
> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
>>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows need
>>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
>>>>>
>>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
>>>>
>>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
>>>
>>> Except that I haven't.
>>
>> yet.
>
> Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
> condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.

There is a failure of logic here somewhere.  Windows from factory are 
filled with dry air or a heavy gas like Argon.  The seal is nearly 100%. 
  No condensation is observed.  A small leak develops and at some point, 
condensation is observed.  A slightly larger leak is installed and the 
condensation goes away, permanently?  I find it hard to believe that 
condensation can't happen still.  It's not like the very slow leak would 
concentrate the water vapor inside the panes.  It simply acts as a low 
pass filter giving a DC value of the signal with the AC component 
largely removed.  The hole in the glass changes the time constant 
allowing the water vapor to leave, but only very slowly.  When 
temperature changes more rapidly condensation will continue to form.


> Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
> than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.

There was enough heat conduction to condense inside the window before 
the hole was drilled.  Drilling the hole will only impact the RC time 
constant of the water vapor levels inside the window.

The heat conduction is not related to your issue.  The inside of the 
outer pane will be colder than the inside of a single pane glass.  So if 
there is water vapor inside the window it will condense.

-- 

Rick C

[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]


#453298

FromGeorge Herold <gherold@teachspin.com>
Date2017-03-23 17:37 -0700
Message-ID<18fa623f-cd42-4114-a287-1d11ed34a078@googlegroups.com>
In reply to#453252
On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 3:25:12 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
> On 3/23/2017 12:14 AM, John Larkin wrote:
> > On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:46:12 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >
> >> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 17:24:51 -0700, John Larkin
> >> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 20:12:23 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:56:20 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 13:37:34 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
> >>>>>> <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> >>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> If the seal is broken (moisture between the panes), the windows need
> >>>>>> to be replaced.  They can't be fixed.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Drilling a vent hole seems to work fine. It lets the moisture out.
> >>>>
> >>>> And back in.  You'll always have a condensation problem.
> >>>
> >>> Except that I haven't.
> >>
> >> yet.
> >
> > Some of the ones here, I drilled two and three years ago. The
> > condensation went away in a few days. Seem fine winter and summer.
> 
> There is a failure of logic here somewhere.  Windows from factory are 
> filled with dry air or a heavy gas like Argon.  The seal is nearly 100%. 
>   No condensation is observed.  A small leak develops and at some point, 
> condensation is observed.  A slightly larger leak is installed and the 
> condensation goes away, permanently?  I find it hard to believe that 
> condensation can't happen still.  It's not like the very slow leak would 
> concentrate the water vapor inside the panes.  It simply acts as a low 
> pass filter giving a DC value of the signal with the AC component 
> largely removed.  The hole in the glass changes the time constant 
> allowing the water vapor to leave, but only very slowly.  When 
> temperature changes more rapidly condensation will continue to form.
Or a failure of imagination, if the small leak is from the hot
moisture laden side, then a bigger hole could help, 
as long as the outside doesn't become wetter... which it 
does when it rains and such.. it 's a fun question.

George H. 
> 
> 
> > Seems to me like a vented 2-pane window is less prone to condensation
> > than a single-pane. Less heat conduction to drive condensation.
> 
> There was enough heat conduction to condense inside the window before 
> the hole was drilled.  Drilling the hole will only impact the RC time 
> constant of the water vapor levels inside the window.
> 
> The heat conduction is not related to your issue.  The inside of the 
> outer pane will be colder than the inside of a single pane glass.  So if 
> there is water vapor inside the window it will condense.
> 
> -- 
> 
> Rick C

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#453074

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-22 13:44 -0400
Message-ID<oaud0g$83b$2@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453060
On 3/22/2017 1:18 PM, John Larkin wrote:
>
>
> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>
> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
> or water?

The vent hole may help at times, but there is a reason why they sealed 
the windows to begin with.  The moist air will still condense at times 
and the increased moisture reduces the insulation properties.

I guess it's better than buying new windows, eh?

-- 

Rick C

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#453082

FromKevin Glover <kevinfglover@yahoo.com>
Date2017-03-22 11:22 -0700
Message-ID<psf5dchqnmhgunpg5jdj80ln7o6vb0p69b@4ax.com>
In reply to#453060
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:18:44 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

>
>
>I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>
>I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
>use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
>or water?
I don't know about drilling but when I was doing stained glass work,
the grinder I used had diamond heads and was high speed and used water
as lubricant/coolant. The biggest threat to the glass is heat. If it
has a low temperature coefficent (as most window glass has), heat
could cause the glass to crack. So I would say high speed Dremel,
water coolant and a steady hand.
Cheers

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#453090

FromJohn Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
Date2017-03-22 11:44 -0700
Message-ID<tridnYLsXdCdW0_FnZ2dnUU7-YHNnZ2d@giganews.com>
In reply to#453060
On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
>
>
> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>
> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
> or water?
>
>

Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry 
day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the 
glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using 
soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a 
slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and 
then seal up the remaining hole.

Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other 
responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes 
with drops of glue.

I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose 
seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...

John

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#453093

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-22 15:07 -0400
Message-ID<oauhru$s2v$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453090
On 3/22/2017 2:44 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>
>> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
>> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
>> or water?
>>
>>
>
> Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry
> day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the
> glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using
> soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a
> slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and
> then seal up the remaining hole.
>
> Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other
> responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes
> with drops of glue.
>
> I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose
> seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...

Unless you fill the window with dry air of some sort you will still get 
condensation on cool days.  If you've ever lived in a house with single 
pane glass you remember even on the days when it seems dry as a bone 
inside but freezing outside frost will form on the glass.  Condensation 
will continue to form inside a window on cool days unless you get the 
dewpoint of the air inside the glass below the necessary temp.  It's not 
like letting your towels dry out.

-- 

Rick C

[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]


#453097

FromLasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk>
Date2017-03-22 12:19 -0700
Message-ID<8bb36d08-5d79-4982-a006-32751b5017d7@googlegroups.com>
In reply to#453093
Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.07.28 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> On 3/22/2017 2:44 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> > On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> >> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
> >>
> >> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
> >> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
> >> or water?
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry
> > day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the
> > glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using
> > soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a
> > slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and
> > then seal up the remaining hole.
> >
> > Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other
> > responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes
> > with drops of glue.
> >
> > I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose
> > seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...
> 
> Unless you fill the window with dry air of some sort you will still get 
> condensation on cool days.  If you've ever lived in a house with single 
> pane glass you remember even on the days when it seems dry as a bone 
> inside but freezing outside frost will form on the glass.  Condensation 
> will continue to form inside a window on cool days unless you get the 
> dewpoint of the air inside the glass below the necessary temp.  It's not 
> like letting your towels dry out.
> 

drill two holes, one the bottom one at the top

if you put the bottom one outside and top one inside, it might suck in cold dry air at the bottom and when it heats up blow out the top


-Lasse

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#453111

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-22 15:51 -0400
Message-ID<oaukep$593$2@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453097
On 3/22/2017 3:19 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
> Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.07.28 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
>> On 3/22/2017 2:44 PM, John Robertson wrote:
>>> On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>
>>>> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
>>>> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
>>>> or water?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry
>>> day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the
>>> glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using
>>> soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a
>>> slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and
>>> then seal up the remaining hole.
>>>
>>> Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other
>>> responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes
>>> with drops of glue.
>>>
>>> I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose
>>> seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...
>>
>> Unless you fill the window with dry air of some sort you will still get
>> condensation on cool days.  If you've ever lived in a house with single
>> pane glass you remember even on the days when it seems dry as a bone
>> inside but freezing outside frost will form on the glass.  Condensation
>> will continue to form inside a window on cool days unless you get the
>> dewpoint of the air inside the glass below the necessary temp.  It's not
>> like letting your towels dry out.
>>
>
> drill two holes, one the bottom one at the top
>
> if you put the bottom one outside and top one inside, it might suck in cold dry air at the bottom and when it heats up blow out the top

Why would it preferentially move air through one hole and not the other???

-- 

Rick C

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#453123

FromLasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk>
Date2017-03-22 13:58 -0700
Message-ID<b5fd886b-b89e-4fad-b010-c51db028cb0e@googlegroups.com>
In reply to#453111
Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.51.40 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> On 3/22/2017 3:19 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
> > Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.07.28 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
> >> On 3/22/2017 2:44 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> >>> On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
> >>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
> >>>>
> >>>> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
> >>>> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
> >>>> or water?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry
> >>> day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the
> >>> glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using
> >>> soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a
> >>> slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and
> >>> then seal up the remaining hole.
> >>>
> >>> Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other
> >>> responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes
> >>> with drops of glue.
> >>>
> >>> I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose
> >>> seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...
> >>
> >> Unless you fill the window with dry air of some sort you will still get
> >> condensation on cool days.  If you've ever lived in a house with single
> >> pane glass you remember even on the days when it seems dry as a bone
> >> inside but freezing outside frost will form on the glass.  Condensation
> >> will continue to form inside a window on cool days unless you get the
> >> dewpoint of the air inside the glass below the necessary temp.  It's not
> >> like letting your towels dry out.
> >>
> >
> > drill two holes, one the bottom one at the top
> >
> > if you put the bottom one outside and top one inside, it might suck in cold dry air at the bottom and when it heats up blow out the top
> 
> Why would it preferentially move air through one hole and not the other???
> 

as the air between the pane heats up it rises to the top

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#453125

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-22 17:05 -0400
Message-ID<oauopu$n6i$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453123
On 3/22/2017 4:58 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
> Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.51.40 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
>> On 3/22/2017 3:19 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
>>> Den onsdag den 22. marts 2017 kl. 20.07.28 UTC+1 skrev rickman:
>>>> On 3/22/2017 2:44 PM, John Robertson wrote:
>>>>> On 2017/03/22 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped
>>>>>> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to
>>>>>> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil
>>>>>> or water?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Why not take the double glass envelope out (if possible - on a hot dry
>>>>> day) and drill through the seal? You could then gently pressurize the
>>>>> glass (basketball filler tube through the seal perhaps?) and then, using
>>>>> soapy water around the seals, find the leak(s) and seal them up under a
>>>>> slight vacuum to suck in a silicon sealant. Slight positive pressure and
>>>>> then seal up the remaining hole.
>>>>>
>>>>> Or drill two holes (top and bottom - process pointed out in other
>>>>> responses) and vacuum out the moisture on a hot day, then seal the holes
>>>>> with drops of glue.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am curious about the results as we have a couple of windows whose
>>>>> seals have failed and was planning on replacing them...
>>>>
>>>> Unless you fill the window with dry air of some sort you will still get
>>>> condensation on cool days.  If you've ever lived in a house with single
>>>> pane glass you remember even on the days when it seems dry as a bone
>>>> inside but freezing outside frost will form on the glass.  Condensation
>>>> will continue to form inside a window on cool days unless you get the
>>>> dewpoint of the air inside the glass below the necessary temp.  It's not
>>>> like letting your towels dry out.
>>>>
>>>
>>> drill two holes, one the bottom one at the top
>>>
>>> if you put the bottom one outside and top one inside, it might suck in cold dry air at the bottom and when it heats up blow out the top
>>
>> Why would it preferentially move air through one hole and not the other???
>>
>
> as the air between the pane heats up it rises to the top

And why would that push air out the top as opposed to out the bottom? 
Any thermal air currents will be *very* slow and the interior will have 
equal pressure throughout.

-- 

Rick C

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#453133

FromJon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>
Date2017-03-22 16:26 -0500
Message-ID<ppadncYiOrlPdk_FnZ2dnUU7-Y2dnZ2d@giganews.com>
In reply to#453125
rickman wrote:


> And why would that push air out the top as opposed to out the bottom?
> Any thermal air currents will be *very* slow and the interior will have
> equal pressure throughout.
> 
And, any time you run the clothes dryer or bathroom ventilators, it will 
suck air in through any holes or leaks in the house.  That will certainly 
overcome the slight pressure differential of warming air.  I'd hope it 
wouldn't turn the windows into pipe organ-like sound generators.

Jon

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#453138

Fromrickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>
Date2017-03-22 18:00 -0400
Message-ID<oaus0q$3g8$1@dont-email.me>
In reply to#453133
On 3/22/2017 5:26 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
> rickman wrote:
>
>
>> And why would that push air out the top as opposed to out the bottom?
>> Any thermal air currents will be *very* slow and the interior will have
>> equal pressure throughout.
>>
> And, any time you run the clothes dryer or bathroom ventilators, it will
> suck air in through any holes or leaks in the house.  That will certainly
> overcome the slight pressure differential of warming air.  I'd hope it
> wouldn't turn the windows into pipe organ-like sound generators.

Now I see what Lasse was getting at.  There could be a chimney effect. 
I'm not sure how strong it would be since the air inside the window is 
likely between the temperature of the outside and the inside.  The air 
inside would be warmer tending to let the air in the window fall out 
inside the house.  The air outside is cooler tending to let the air from 
the window rise out through the hole.  So it would be drawing air from 
both holes.

The bottom line is the holes would be small limiting any air flow to 
minuscule amounts.  So with any quick temperature changes like we had 
here last night, the warm, moist inside air could easily cause 
condensation on the inside of the window as it cools, just like with the 
even smaller air leak that caused the problem in the first place.

-- 

Rick C

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