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Groups > comp.arch.embedded > #12586 > unrolled thread
| Started by | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| First post | 2013-07-21 02:47 -0700 |
| Last post | 2013-07-23 21:42 -0700 |
| Articles | 20 on this page of 115 — 25 participants |
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Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 02:47 -0700
Re: Cutting panels John Fields <jfields@austininstruments.com> - 2013-07-21 08:05 -0500
Re: Cutting panels Roberto Waltman <usenet@rwaltman.com> - 2013-07-21 10:38 -0400
Re: Cutting panels "Carl Ijames" <carl.ijames@nonono.verizon.net> - 2013-07-21 12:36 -0400
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 09:48 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 13:29 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 14:10 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 16:23 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Grant Edwards <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 21:04 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 15:07 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 16:35 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 17:11 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 16:27 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Robert Wessel <robertwessel2@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-23 21:50 -0500
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 21:24 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-24 09:09 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-24 16:02 -0700
Re: Cutting panels hamilton <hamilton@nothere.com> - 2013-07-21 16:52 -0600
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 17:13 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 12:35 -0700
Re: Cutting panels amdx <nojunk@knology.net> - 2013-07-21 09:54 -0500
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 09:32 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 13:36 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 14:04 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 13:14 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 13:26 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-21 14:06 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 16:08 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Rich Webb <webb.ra@example.net> - 2013-07-21 19:42 -0400
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 21:45 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-22 07:51 +0000
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> - 2013-07-23 05:57 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 14:46 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Lancaster <don@tinaja.com> - 2013-07-23 16:41 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> - 2013-07-23 17:21 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-24 09:26 +0000
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-25 12:11 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> - 2013-07-25 16:04 -0400
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-25 13:03 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-23 13:40 +0000
Re: Cutting panels [solved?] Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-23 07:38 -0700
Re: Cutting panels [solved?]/summary Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-29 15:18 -0700
Re: Cutting panels andrews@sdf.lonestar.org - 2013-07-21 12:45 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 19:17 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> - 2013-07-21 19:45 -0400
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 17:07 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Peter Bennett <peterbb@somewhere.invalid> - 2013-07-21 16:57 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 20:58 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-21 21:02 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-22 09:20 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 12:15 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-22 16:17 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 18:52 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-23 14:00 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 15:13 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-23 07:09 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> - 2013-07-23 10:03 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 21:59 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 15:54 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-24 13:09 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-24 15:51 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-26 09:13 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-26 11:35 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Paul Rubin <no.email@nospam.invalid> - 2013-07-26 12:06 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jan Panteltje <panteltje@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-26 19:44 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Paul Rubin <no.email@nospam.invalid> - 2013-07-26 22:21 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-27 08:12 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-26 13:42 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Paul Rubin <no.email@nospam.invalid> - 2013-07-26 18:50 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-26 22:49 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Paul Rubin <no.email@nospam.invalid> - 2013-07-27 00:53 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-27 10:16 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-26 23:52 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-27 17:36 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-28 09:22 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-28 12:31 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Paul Rubin <no.email@nospam.invalid> - 2013-07-28 13:48 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-28 14:20 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-28 16:35 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-28 17:39 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-28 19:38 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-29 11:15 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-29 16:30 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-29 17:38 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-29 21:45 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> - 2013-07-30 12:20 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2013-07-21 21:38 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Robert Wessel <robertwessel2@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-22 00:39 -0500
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 01:39 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Robert Wessel <robertwessel2@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-22 19:09 -0500
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 20:10 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-23 14:07 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-22 18:33 +0100
Re: Cutting panels Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> - 2013-07-22 13:44 -0400
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-22 19:00 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> - 2013-07-23 10:09 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-23 11:45 +0100
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-23 13:46 +0100
Re: Cutting panels 0bama <0B@nocontrast.org> - 2013-07-23 13:06 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-23 22:19 +0100
Re: Cutting panels 0bama <0B@nocontrast.org> - 2013-07-24 08:05 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> - 2013-07-23 10:07 -0400
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-25 01:26 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-23 14:18 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> - 2013-07-23 11:38 -0400
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-23 22:32 +0100
Re: Cutting panels Frank Miles <fpm@u.washington.edu> - 2013-07-23 21:37 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 16:16 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> - 2013-07-24 10:37 +0100
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-25 01:27 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Gonadicus <gonadicus@no_spam.com> - 2013-07-23 12:46 +0800
Re: Cutting panels sms <scharf.steven@geemail.com> - 2013-07-23 04:58 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 16:13 -0700
Re: Cutting panels Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> - 2013-07-23 13:25 +0000
Re: Cutting panels Don Y <this@isnotme.com> - 2013-07-23 21:42 -0700
Page 2 of 6 — ← Prev page 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 Next page →
| From | amdx <nojunk@knology.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 09:54 -0500 |
| Message-ID | <ksgsc7$v8n$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #12586 |
On 7/21/2013 4:47 AM, Don Y wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to fabricate a "patch panel" for a network
> distribution point. Most COTS panels are fabricated
> in multiples of 12 or 24.
>
> E.g., 1x12, 1x24 (as 12+12), 4x24, etc.
>
> Graphically, something like:
>
> 1x12 XXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> 1x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> 4x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> Each 'X' being an 8P8C RJ45S connector.
>
> Typically, these "connector assemblies" are fastened
> to the rear of an aluminum plate while the connectors
> themselves protrude through holes in that plate
> (actually, since the connectors typically abut each other,
> the holes are really long *slots*)
>
> [Sorry if all this is obvious -- if you've seen one such
> panel, you'd understand what I mean]
>
> In my particular case (1-off), I need to fabricate two
> "3x12" panels:
>
> XXXXXXXXXXXX
> XXXXXXXXXXXX
> XXXXXXXXXXXX
>
> My problem is cutting these long slots in some material
> (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish.
> [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings
> so they are nice and square, etc.]
>
> You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like
> "aluminum with a file" :< I just can't imagine keeping
> nice hard, straight edges going that route!
>
I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many
have a small lip to cover minor flaws. I if indeed the job is 3 long
slots and not 36 small slots, I would fabricate it myself with a jigsaw
and a file. I usually scribe lines in the aluminum and put a fresh coat
of masking tape on the bottom of my jigsaw to protect the material, then
grab the proper glasses, and lighting for good vision. I'd mount the
aluminum securely maybe in a vise, maybe screwed to a piece of wood.
You might want to change the masking tape part way through.
Use a variable speed jigsaw and a new blade (I like the bimetal)
and take your time and take breaks.
If your not up to that, make a drawing and take it to a machine shop.
I bought one of these panels for a system using RJ45s
http://www.mpja.com/Cat5-Cisco-Splitter-Panel-48-Input_96-Output-2U/productinfo/16769%20TT/
I bought it for the parts when I put together a temperature monitoring
system for 13 freezers. (A "One Wire" system)
Mikek
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| From | Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 09:32 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <b52gphF2bu3U1@mid.individual.net> |
| In reply to | #12590 |
amdx wrote: > On 7/21/2013 4:47 AM, Don Y wrote: >> Hi, >> >> I need to fabricate a "patch panel" for a network >> distribution point. Most COTS panels are fabricated >> in multiples of 12 or 24. >> >> E.g., 1x12, 1x24 (as 12+12), 4x24, etc. >> >> Graphically, something like: >> >> 1x12 XXXXXXXXXXXX >> >> 1x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX >> >> 4x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX >> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX >> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX >> XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX >> >> Each 'X' being an 8P8C RJ45S connector. >> >> Typically, these "connector assemblies" are fastened >> to the rear of an aluminum plate while the connectors >> themselves protrude through holes in that plate >> (actually, since the connectors typically abut each other, >> the holes are really long *slots*) >> >> [Sorry if all this is obvious -- if you've seen one such >> panel, you'd understand what I mean] >> >> In my particular case (1-off), I need to fabricate two >> "3x12" panels: >> >> XXXXXXXXXXXX >> XXXXXXXXXXXX >> XXXXXXXXXXXX >> >> My problem is cutting these long slots in some material >> (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish. >> [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings >> so they are nice and square, etc.] >> >> You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like >> "aluminum with a file" :< ... Not sure why you'd see filed edges in this case. If you mean the outsides of a cut panel I do this: a. File with a coarse file, then a fine one. b. Go over it with an electric sander and 240-grit paper or similar. c. Go over it by hand with 600-grit paper. d. If I want to be extra good I go over it once more with 600-grit and chalk in it. Commercial product does not live up to that. >> ... I just can't imagine keeping >> nice hard, straight edges going that route! >> A pint of Guinness can help with that :-) > > I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many > have a small lip to cover minor flaws. ... IME they all have a lip. Else they'd fall out the back :-) > ... I if indeed the job is 3 long > slots and not 36 small slots, I would fabricate it myself with a jigsaw > and a file. I usually scribe lines in the aluminum and put a fresh coat > of masking tape on the bottom of my jigsaw to protect the material, then > grab the proper glasses, and lighting for good vision. ... That's exactly how I do it. I use a Bosch 230V jig saw running a bit slow on 120V, makes nice clean cuts. You just have to resist the temptation of rushing the job by pushing too hard. > ... I'd mount the > aluminum securely maybe in a vise, maybe screwed to a piece of wood. I clamp it to a wooden workbench. Also with some masking tape so the clamps won't mar the aluminum. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 13:36 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <kshgnu$5nf$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12592 |
Hi Joerg, On 7/21/2013 9:32 AM, Joerg wrote: > amdx wrote: >> On 7/21/2013 4:47 AM, Don Y wrote: >>> My problem is cutting these long slots in some material >>> (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish. >>> [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings >>> so they are nice and square, etc.] >>> >>> You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like >>> "aluminum with a file" :< ... > > Not sure why you'd see filed edges in this case. If you mean the > outsides of a cut panel I do this: No. Outside is easy -- you can bring power tools to bear (belt sanders, etc.) But, when cutting a long, thin slot/opening in the interior of the piece, your choices quickly get limited. Esp if you want nice square corners, etc. >> I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many >> have a small lip to cover minor flaws. ... > > IME they all have a lip. Else they'd fall out the back :-) The ones I've seen are all *mounted* from the back. See the images (URL) I posted in another reply. --don
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| From | Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 14:04 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <b530o3F5oclU1@mid.individual.net> |
| In reply to | #12602 |
Don Y wrote: > Hi Joerg, > > On 7/21/2013 9:32 AM, Joerg wrote: >> amdx wrote: >>> On 7/21/2013 4:47 AM, Don Y wrote: > >>>> My problem is cutting these long slots in some material >>>> (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish. >>>> [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings >>>> so they are nice and square, etc.] >>>> >>>> You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like >>>> "aluminum with a file" :< ... >> >> Not sure why you'd see filed edges in this case. If you mean the >> outsides of a cut panel I do this: > > No. Outside is easy -- you can bring power tools to bear (belt > sanders, etc.) But, when cutting a long, thin slot/opening in the > interior of the piece, your choices quickly get limited. Esp if > you want nice square corners, etc. > Well, in my teenage days I did both inside and outside strictly by hand. The only power tool I had, and only on occasion, was dad's electric drill. But strictly no milling or routing with that because it would have ruined the bearings. When I was 15 or so my parents gave me a new Metabo drill but I didn't want to wreck its bearings either. I didn't really have any other power tools until after my EE degree except for a huge and rather dangerous home-brew grinder. For the insides I glued sandpaper on a piece of plywood, made the smoothing job quite easy. >>> I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many >>> have a small lip to cover minor flaws. ... >> >> IME they all have a lip. Else they'd fall out the back :-) > > The ones I've seen are all *mounted* from the back. See the > images (URL) I posted in another reply. > True, when they are on a PCB they do not cover the slots. But it ain't so bad to get the slots done cleanly. A couple of years ago I did that for an audio rack. Looked like it came that way from the manufacturer. Back in Europe engineers had to go through part of the apprentice program that journeymen go through. It teaches students precision filing and all that. We were only allowed to use simple power tools such as the drill press. And woe to him whose piece of workmanship was 0.005" off somewhere. The master would make you start all over, from scratch. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 13:14 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <kshfek$1tk$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12590 |
Hi Mike,
On 7/21/2013 7:54 AM, amdx wrote:
> On 7/21/2013 4:47 AM, Don Y wrote:
>> I need to fabricate a "patch panel" for a network
>> distribution point. Most COTS panels are fabricated
>> in multiples of 12 or 24.
>> Typically, these "connector assemblies" are fastened
>> to the rear of an aluminum plate while the connectors
>> themselves protrude through holes in that plate
>> (actually, since the connectors typically abut each other,
>> the holes are really long *slots*)
>> In my particular case (1-off), I need to fabricate two
>> "3x12" panels:
>> My problem is cutting these long slots in some material
>> (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish.
>> [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings
>> so they are nice and square, etc.]
>>
>> You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like
>> "aluminum with a file" :< I just can't imagine keeping
>> nice hard, straight edges going that route!
>
> I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many
> have a small lip to cover minor flaws.
Most of the units I've seen (I've accumulated quite a nice
collection! :> ) have the connectors *peek* through the slots
in the front metal plate, mounted from behind.
For example:
<http://www.genesistems.com/office/pics/PatchPanel.JPG>
Note the "black dots" -- each a boss/stand-off that's supporting
the PCB onto which the individual connectors are mounted.
Or:
<http://www.showmecables.com/product/Cat5e-Patch-Panel-48-Port.aspx>
which has some alternate thumbnails showing detail of the
openings in the panel -- along with a view of the back side.
E.g., a PCB (or, a set of PCB's) is mounted behind the panel.
On one side of the PCB, the connectors are mounted. On the reverse
side, a series of punch-down blocks (the third thumbnail) which
are connected to the connectors via traces on the PCB's.
Viewed "end-on" sighting down the row of connectors, you have:
CCCC
==========
B B
where CCCC represents the connector's body and B the punchdown
blocks.
But, the epiphany is hidden in your phrase: "a small lip to cover
minor flaws"! I.e., while the connectors themselves don't have such
a lip, there's nothing to prevent me from *making* one!
Specifically, creating a "precise" veneer to mask any ugliness
in the fabrication of the "metal/lexan panel". I.e., use the
panel for structural support and adhere a thin (rigid) plastic
veneer *to* it!
You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good
straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even
make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on
your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :>
> I if indeed the job is 3 long
> slots and not 36 small slots, I would fabricate it myself with a jigsaw
> and a file. I usually scribe lines in the aluminum and put a fresh coat
> of masking tape on the bottom of my jigsaw to protect the material, then
> grab the proper glasses, and lighting for good vision. I'd mount the
> aluminum securely maybe in a vise, maybe screwed to a piece of wood.
> You might want to change the masking tape part way through.
With the veneer approach, you could be *really* crude in how well you
cut the slots. And, "filing" would only be necessary to remove burrs,
etc.
Yes, I like this idea! It's something that others could easily
reproduce and get "good" results -- all while avoiding the need
to locate some "service" to do the work for you!
> Use a variable speed jigsaw and a new blade (I like the bimetal)
> and take your time and take breaks.
> If your not up to that, make a drawing and take it to a machine shop.
>
> I bought one of these panels for a system using RJ45s
> http://www.mpja.com/Cat5-Cisco-Splitter-Panel-48-Input_96-Output-2U/productinfo/16769%20TT/
>
> I bought it for the parts when I put together a temperature monitoring
> system for 13 freezers. (A "One Wire" system)
> Mikek
>
>
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 13:26 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <kshg5c$4a0$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12599 |
On 7/21/2013 1:14 PM, Don Y wrote: > But, the epiphany is hidden in your phrase: "a small lip to cover > minor flaws"! I.e., while the connectors themselves don't have such > a lip, there's nothing to prevent me from *making* one! > > Specifically, creating a "precise" veneer to mask any ugliness > in the fabrication of the "metal/lexan panel". I.e., use the > panel for structural support and adhere a thin (rigid) plastic > veneer *to* it! > > You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good > straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even > make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on > your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :> Oh, yes! A rigid (thin) sheet of plastic onto which is adhered a nice, *legended* applique (photographically reproduced from a Photoshop/Illustrator file created on your PC for $2 at your local Costco, etc.). Make things look *really* professional/custom! Much cleaner than scribbling what each connector services *on* the panel itself! And, for little/no money! Finestkind!
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| From | Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 14:06 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <b530r8F5oclU2@mid.individual.net> |
| In reply to | #12600 |
Don Y wrote: > On 7/21/2013 1:14 PM, Don Y wrote: > >> But, the epiphany is hidden in your phrase: "a small lip to cover >> minor flaws"! I.e., while the connectors themselves don't have such >> a lip, there's nothing to prevent me from *making* one! >> >> Specifically, creating a "precise" veneer to mask any ugliness >> in the fabrication of the "metal/lexan panel". I.e., use the >> panel for structural support and adhere a thin (rigid) plastic >> veneer *to* it! >> >> You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good >> straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even >> make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on >> your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :> > > Oh, yes! A rigid (thin) sheet of plastic onto which is adhered > a nice, *legended* applique (photographically reproduced from a > Photoshop/Illustrator file created on your PC for $2 at your local > Costco, etc.). Make things look *really* professional/custom! > Much cleaner than scribbling what each connector services *on* > the panel itself! > Hey, can you elaborate on that Costco deal? I am always looking for a fast way to make nice-looking front panels. Do they offer some sort of thick-plastic printing? [...] -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 16:08 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <kshpl2$rhk$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12605 |
Hi Joerg, On 7/21/2013 2:06 PM, Joerg wrote: >>> You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good >>> straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even >>> make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on >>> your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :> >> >> Oh, yes! A rigid (thin) sheet of plastic onto which is adhered >> a nice, *legended* applique (photographically reproduced from a >> Photoshop/Illustrator file created on your PC for $2 at your local >> Costco, etc.). Make things look *really* professional/custom! >> Much cleaner than scribbling what each connector services *on* >> the panel itself! > > Hey, can you elaborate on that Costco deal? I am always looking for a > fast way to make nice-looking front panels. Do they offer some sort of > thick-plastic printing? Dunno. I was just advocating a *regular* 8x10 glossy photo print rubber cemented onto a plastic/aluminum panel. That way, you can get the "graphics" as a commodity product. [Realistically, a glossy photo would probably not fare well. But, that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of some other "print from PC" technology to come up with a nice legended overlay. I.e., separate the cosmetic from the structural requirements...] Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away (or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money into something with little *functional* value.
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| From | Rich Webb <webb.ra@example.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-21 19:42 -0400 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <2vrou8da0nlddh14ea8u7nnd9b7de3tf7t@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #12610 |
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >into something with little *functional* value. There is. More or less a spin-off of the laser transfer system used to prepare PCBs for hobby etching. <http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/> I have used their green stuff for PCB layouts (ages ago). Have not tried making the DIY dry transfers.
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 21:45 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <ksnm50$r55$2@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12615 |
Hi Rich, On 7/21/2013 4:42 PM, Rich Webb wrote: > On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: > >> In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >> for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >> into something with little *functional* value. > > There is. More or less a spin-off of the laser transfer system used to > prepare PCBs for hobby etching. > > <http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/> > > I have used their green stuff for PCB layouts (ages ago). Have not > tried making the DIY dry transfers. Hmmm... that's worth bookmarking! Thanks!
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| From | Jan Panteltje <pNaonStpealmtje@yahoo.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-22 07:51 +0000 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <ksiocc$764$1@news.albasani.net> |
| In reply to | #12610 |
>Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product >ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of >aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away >(or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available >today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that >same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and >stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) > >In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >into something with little *functional* value. This I printed on paper, and then put some stikcy transparent over it. The rectangular hole was made with a jigsaw. http://panteltje.com/panteltje/pic/swr_pic/swr_box_front_1_img_0982.jpg The LEDs are behind holes in the alu, you only see those when on. It needs a LCD bezel and a new printout and foil glued, but it seems to work this way too ;-) But if you do this right it can look cool, print text in color too (inkjet), and the transparent foil makes it shine, shine sells. http://panteltje.com/panteltje/pic/swr_pic/swr_box_front_2_img_0992.jpg I messed up the foil when sliding it in, was too thick... else it is really flat.
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| From | Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 05:57 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <nlgru8tfl7r5rfkqtnh3h2lmfi2u2bqmtb@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #12610 |
On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >Hi Joerg, > >On 7/21/2013 2:06 PM, Joerg wrote: >>>> You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good >>>> straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even >>>> make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on >>>> your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :> >>> >>> Oh, yes! A rigid (thin) sheet of plastic onto which is adhered >>> a nice, *legended* applique (photographically reproduced from a >>> Photoshop/Illustrator file created on your PC for $2 at your local >>> Costco, etc.). Make things look *really* professional/custom! >>> Much cleaner than scribbling what each connector services *on* >>> the panel itself! >> >> Hey, can you elaborate on that Costco deal? I am always looking for a >> fast way to make nice-looking front panels. Do they offer some sort of >> thick-plastic printing? > >Dunno. I was just advocating a *regular* 8x10 glossy photo print >rubber cemented onto a plastic/aluminum panel. That way, you can >get the "graphics" as a commodity product. > >[Realistically, a glossy photo would probably not fare well. >But, that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of some other >"print from PC" technology to come up with a nice legended overlay. >I.e., separate the cosmetic from the structural requirements...] > >Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product >ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of >aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away >(or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available >today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that >same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and >stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) > >In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >into something with little *functional* value. I have used clear label material to do something like this. You can get 10 8.5" x 11" sheets for $11 and just print it up in a color laser printer. They also made a silver set of labels that I used to make serial number panels for. Charlie
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 14:46 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <ksmtkf$6t9$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12658 |
Hi Charlie, On 7/23/2013 5:57 AM, Charlie E. wrote: > On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: > >> Dunno. I was just advocating a *regular* 8x10 glossy photo print >> rubber cemented onto a plastic/aluminum panel. That way, you can >> get the "graphics" as a commodity product. >> >> [Realistically, a glossy photo would probably not fare well. >> But, that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of some other >> "print from PC" technology to come up with a nice legended overlay. >> I.e., separate the cosmetic from the structural requirements...] >> >> Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product >> ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of >> aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away >> (or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available >> today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that >> same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and >> stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) >> >> In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >> for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >> into something with little *functional* value. > > I have used clear label material to do something like this. You can > get 10 8.5" x 11" sheets for $11 and just print it up in a color laser > printer. Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". [And, of course, laminating that afterwards subjects it to yet another thermal process...] > They also made a silver set of labels that I used to make serial > number panels for.
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| From | Don Lancaster <don@tinaja.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 16:41 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <b58iksFbgh5U1@mid.individual.net> |
| In reply to | #12674 |
On 7/23/2013 2:46 PM, Don Y wrote: > Hi Charlie, > > On 7/23/2013 5:57 AM, Charlie E. wrote: >> On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >> >>> Dunno. I was just advocating a *regular* 8x10 glossy photo print >>> rubber cemented onto a plastic/aluminum panel. That way, you can >>> get the "graphics" as a commodity product. >>> >>> [Realistically, a glossy photo would probably not fare well. >>> But, that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of some other >>> "print from PC" technology to come up with a nice legended overlay. >>> I.e., separate the cosmetic from the structural requirements...] >>> >>> Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product >>> ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of >>> aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away >>> (or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available >>> today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that >>> same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and >>> stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) >>> >>> In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >>> for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >>> into something with little *functional* value. >> >> I have used clear label material to do something like this. You can >> get 10 8.5" x 11" sheets for $11 and just print it up in a color laser >> printer. > > Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of > mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! > (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) > > But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) > and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature > fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer > just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". > > [And, of course, laminating that afterwards subjects it to yet > another thermal process...] > >> They also made a silver set of labels that I used to make serial >> number panels for. > Polyester or mylar can be used in a laser printer. Vinyl or tyvek can not. Acetate is also a no no. By as astounding coincidence, we have several dozen miles of clear polyester film in stock. Still trying to build a rewinder to make sanely shippable eBay offers. We are open to a bid on the entire lot. FOB Thatcher. -- Many thanks, Don Lancaster voice phone: (928)428-4073 Synergetics 3860 West First Street Box 809 Thatcher, AZ 85552 rss: http://www.tinaja.com/whtnu.xml email: don@tinaja.com Please visit my GURU's LAIR web site at http://www.tinaja.com
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| From | Charlie E. <edmondson@ieee.org> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 17:21 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <td7uu81gb2e4d12nkalgn92u355t9r37q5@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #12674 |
On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 14:46:58 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >Hi Charlie, > >On 7/23/2013 5:57 AM, Charlie E. wrote: >> On Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:08:14 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >> >>> Dunno. I was just advocating a *regular* 8x10 glossy photo print >>> rubber cemented onto a plastic/aluminum panel. That way, you can >>> get the "graphics" as a commodity product. >>> >>> [Realistically, a glossy photo would probably not fare well. >>> But, that doesn't mean you can't take advantage of some other >>> "print from PC" technology to come up with a nice legended overlay. >>> I.e., separate the cosmetic from the structural requirements...] >>> >>> Decades ago, we used to make those stick on "serial number/product >>> ID" plates on a 1-off basis in the blueprint room. Some sort of >>> aluminum(?) with a black coating that could be etched away >>> (or, maybe it was *deposited*?). With the sort of technology available >>> today (photo processes), it should be possible to do at least that >>> same sort of thing (IIRC, we made a template from clear film and >>> stick on lettering -- then "exposed" this onto the aluminum product) >>> >>> In any case, something like the above solution(s) should be available >>> for hobbyists trying to make 1-offs without dropping a lot of money >>> into something with little *functional* value. >> >> I have used clear label material to do something like this. You can >> get 10 8.5" x 11" sheets for $11 and just print it up in a color laser >> printer. > >Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of >mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! >(thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) > >But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) >and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature >fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer >just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". > >[And, of course, laminating that afterwards subjects it to yet >another thermal process...] > >> They also made a silver set of labels that I used to make serial >> number panels for. Hence, my using label material made for laser printers. Fun thing is that the front of the package say ink jet. If you read the instructions, it says it is for lasers as well!
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| From | Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-24 09:26 +0000 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <kso6k0$ht4$1@gonzo.reversiblemaps.ath.cx> |
| In reply to | #12674 |
On 2013-07-23, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: > > Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of > mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! > (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) > > But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) > and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature > fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer > just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". DuPont says mylar is reasonably good to 200C. paper is good to about 230C, so that's not much less. It should work fine -- ⚂⚃ 100% natural
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-25 12:11 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <ksrt9e$j3p$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12693 |
Hi Jasen, On 7/24/2013 2:26 AM, Jasen Betts wrote: > On 2013-07-23, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >> >> Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of >> mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! >> (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) >> >> But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) >> and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature >> fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer >> just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". > > DuPont says mylar is reasonably good to 200C. What does "good" mean? Do it's surface qualities change (e.g., become "tacky" and more likely to adhere to the drum?) > paper is good to about 230C, so that's not much less. > It should work fine The fuser in a laser printer operates at ~200C. (low temp toners operate at lower temps -- but, I think those are primarily monochrome?) From what I've found re: the Phasers, they operate at a much lower temperature -- 135C. So, I think I'd feel safest trying mylar on a Phaser instead of color laser (though I would be more distraught it the Phaser was damaged than I would the color laser!) <frown> I'll have to finish my experiments with "card stock" and see if they are good enough to warrant NOT risking the mylar experiment. Thx! --don
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| From | Spehro Pefhany <speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-25 16:04 -0400 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <hu03v8d72cs19d3gltlbbbpmea9hedvhi2@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #12705 |
On Thu, 25 Jul 2013 12:11:44 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >Hi Jasen, > >On 7/24/2013 2:26 AM, Jasen Betts wrote: >> On 2013-07-23, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >>> >>> Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of >>> mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! >>> (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) >>> >>> But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) >>> and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature >>> fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer >>> just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". >> >> DuPont says mylar is reasonably good to 200C. > >What does "good" mean? Do it's surface qualities change (e.g., >become "tacky" and more likely to adhere to the drum?) It's not hot when it hits the drum in a laser or LED printer, it's the "fusion roller" that you have to worry about. Typically a halogen light inside a hollow aluminum roller with a silicone sheath. They're service items, so even if it and the roller heat pushes against it got gummed up it might not be a catastrophe. Still, when I suggested it at a copy place, they were rather unenthusiastic even when I said I'd pay for a service call (should have just cut it to size and implied it was a standard overhead sheet). The small color lasers don't deliver much opacity. >> paper is good to about 230C, so that's not much less. >> It should work fine > >The fuser in a laser printer operates at ~200C. (low temp toners >operate at lower temps -- but, I think those are primarily monochrome?) > > From what I've found re: the Phasers, they operate at a much lower >temperature -- 135C. So, I think I'd feel safest trying mylar on >a Phaser instead of color laser (though I would be more distraught >it the Phaser was damaged than I would the color laser!) > ><frown> I'll have to finish my experiments with "card stock" and >see if they are good enough to warrant NOT risking the mylar >experiment. > >Thx! >--don
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| From | Don Y <this@isnotme.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-25 13:03 -0700 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <kss09s$qnv$1@speranza.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #12708 |
Hi Spehro, On 7/25/2013 1:04 PM, Spehro Pefhany wrote: > On Thu, 25 Jul 2013 12:11:44 -0700, Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote: >>>> Yeah, I was tempted to take a D size (smallest I have) sheet of >>>> mylar, cut off the title block, etc. and try printing on that! >>>> (thinking it might be better than this "card stock" I used) >>>> >>>> But, I don't know how hot the phaser runs (since it melts wax) >>>> and the only color laser that I have has a high temperature >>>> fuser. In neither case did I want to risk trashing a printer >>>> just to see if mylar would make a good "medium". >>> >>> DuPont says mylar is reasonably good to 200C. >> >> What does "good" mean? Do it's surface qualities change (e.g., >> become "tacky" and more likely to adhere to the drum?) > > It's not hot when it hits the drum in a laser or LED printer, it's the > "fusion roller" that you have to worry about. Typically a halogen Yes. But in a *Phaser*, the drum is hot (and the *ink* is hot!) Paper is relatively inert even at temperatures approaching its flame point. > light inside a hollow aluminum roller with a silicone sheath. They're > service items, so even if it and the roller heat pushes against it got > gummed up it might not be a catastrophe. Still, when I suggested it at > a copy place, they were rather unenthusiastic even when I said I'd pay > for a service call (should have just cut it to size and implied it was > a standard overhead sheet). The small color lasers don't deliver much > opacity.
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| From | Jasen Betts <jasen@xnet.co.nz> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2013-07-23 13:40 +0000 |
| Subject | Re: Cutting panels [solved?] |
| Message-ID | <ksm141$4k3$2@gonzo.reversiblemaps.ath.cx> |
| In reply to | #12605 |
On 2013-07-21, Joerg <invalid@invalid.invalid> wrote: > Hey, can you elaborate on that Costco deal? I am always looking for a > fast way to make nice-looking front panels. Do they offer some sort of > thick-plastic printing? photocopiers will print on polycarbonate film, and presumably full-on rigid lexan sheet stock if you've got one with a straight paper path. If you print a mirror image and then back it with an opaque layer you can face the clear side to the environment and protect the artwork, Else print on ordinary paper and run it through an ordinary laminator, almost as good (as long as you keep it dry) and less technically demanding. -- ⚂⚃ 100% natural --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
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