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Green?

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  Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-04 08:24 +0100
    Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-04 08:09 +0000
      Re: Green? Scott <newsgroups@gefion.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-04 10:52 +0100
      Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-04 11:32 +0100
    Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-04 10:30 +0100
      Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-04 11:31 +0100
        Re: Green? David Wade <g4ugm@dave.invalid> - 2026-09-04 12:18 +0100
          Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-04 23:09 +0100
            Re: Green? alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-05 10:00 +0100
          Re: Green? Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> - 2026-09-05 07:50 +0100
        Re: Green? Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> - 2026-09-05 09:37 +0100
          Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-05 20:55 +0100
            Re: Green? Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> - 2026-09-08 13:51 +0100
              Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-08 14:22 +0100
                Re: Green? Davey <davey@example.invalid> - 2026-09-08 15:00 +0100
                  Re: Green? Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> - 2026-09-08 19:12 +0100
        Re: Green? alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-05 09:57 +0100
      Re: Green? Max Demian <max_demian@bigfoot.com> - 2026-09-04 11:46 +0100
        Re: Green? alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-05 10:02 +0100
      Re: Green? David Wade <g4ugm@dave.invalid> - 2026-09-04 12:11 +0100
        Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-04 13:26 +0100
        Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-04 23:06 +0100
          Re: Green? David Wade <g4ugm@dave.invalid> - 2026-09-05 00:02 +0100
            Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-05 06:15 +0000
              Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-05 08:15 +0100
              Re: Green? David Wade <g4ugm@dave.invalid> - 2026-09-05 09:19 +0100
            Re: Green? alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-05 10:12 +0100
            Re: Green? John Hall <john@jhall.co.uk> - 2026-09-06 20:40 +0100
              Re: Green? Roderick Stewart <rjfs@escapetime.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-07 09:00 +0100
                Re: Green? Dave W <davewi11@yahoo.co.uk> - 2026-09-07 12:12 +0100
                  Re: Green? Roderick Stewart <rjfs@escapetime.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-08 08:54 +0100
                    Re: Green? Norman Wells <hex@unseen.ac.am> - 2026-09-08 09:04 +0100
                      Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-08 08:13 +0000
                        Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-08 10:10 +0100
                        Re: Green? NY <me@privacy.net> - 2026-09-13 21:28 +0100
                          Re: Green? Indy Jess John <bathwatchdog@OMITTHISgooglemail.com> - 2026-09-14 09:46 +0100
                            Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-14 10:19 +0100
                              Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-14 11:02 +0100
                              Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-14 19:07 +0100
                                Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-14 21:54 +0100
                                  Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-15 05:34 +0000
                                    Re: Green? Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> - 2026-09-15 09:38 +0100
                                      Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-15 08:48 +0000
                                      Re: Green? Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> - 2026-09-15 09:54 +0100
                                    Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-15 09:37 +0100
                                      Re: Green? Tweed <usenet.tweed@gmail.com> - 2026-09-15 09:02 +0000
                                  Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-15 09:27 +0100
                                    Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-15 10:36 +0100
                                      Re: Green? Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> - 2026-09-15 11:03 +0100
                                        Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-15 11:28 +0100
                    Re: Green? JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> - 2026-09-08 10:02 +0100
                      Re: Green? Roderick Stewart <rjfs@escapetime.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-08 20:14 +0100
                        Re: Green? Indy Jess John <bathwatchdog@OMITTHISgooglemail.com> - 2026-09-12 00:33 +0100
                    Re: Green? Paul Ratcliffe <abuse@orac12.clara34.co56.uk78> - 2026-09-18 11:29 +0000
                Re: Green? John Hall <john@jhall.co.uk> - 2026-09-08 18:47 +0100
          Re: Green? alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> - 2026-09-05 10:05 +0100
            Re: Green? Max Demian <max_demian@bigfoot.com> - 2026-09-05 11:21 +0100
      Re: Green? Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> - 2026-09-04 12:12 +0100
        Re: Green? Woody <harrogate3@ntlworld.com> - 2026-09-04 18:31 +0100
      Re: Green? Indy Jess John <bathwatchdog@OMITTHISgooglemail.com> - 2026-09-08 18:48 +0100

Page 3 of 3 — ← Prev page 1 2 [3]

#249802

Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
> On 2026-09-14 19:07, Bob Latham wrote:
>> In article <1188e76$1ckr7$1@dont-email.me>,
>> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>> 
>>> NOT NECESSARILY TRUE!  The purpose of the plug fuse is to protect
>>> everything beyond it, which includes the extension cable that NY
>>> built as he described.
>> 
>> I almost agree. The single purpose of the fuse in a plug is to
>> protect the cable that follows it, NOT the appliance. If the
>> appliance needs protection the manufacturer should add that to
>> the appliance.
> 
> No, the purpose of the plug fuse is as I stated, to protect EVERYTHING 
> that lies beyond it:
> 
> <https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+the+purpose+of+the+fuse+in+an+english+mains+plug>
> 
> If manufacturers wish to provide additional protection to any given 
> appliance to prevent avoidable damage to sensitive and perhaps expensive 
> equipment, potentially including damage caused by the user supplying the 
> wrong plug fuse, then of course that is their choice.  AFAIAA, although 
> there may be specific types of appliance where regulations stipulate 
> some sort of extra protection, generally speaking it isn't required by 
> law.  For example, in a bedside lamp, you don't find an additional fuse 
> between the cable from the plug and the actual light bulb.
> 

We worry too much about the correct plug fuse. Most domestic continental
plugs are unfused and connect to a radial main fused at 16A at the consumer
unit. 

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#249804

On 15/09/2026 06:34, Tweed wrote:
> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>> On 2026-09-14 19:07, Bob Latham wrote:
>>> In article <1188e76$1ckr7$1@dont-email.me>,
>>> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>> NOT NECESSARILY TRUE!  The purpose of the plug fuse is to protect
>>>> everything beyond it, which includes the extension cable that NY
>>>> built as he described.
>>>
>>> I almost agree. The single purpose of the fuse in a plug is to
>>> protect the cable that follows it, NOT the appliance. If the
>>> appliance needs protection the manufacturer should add that to
>>> the appliance.
>>
>> No, the purpose of the plug fuse is as I stated, to protect EVERYTHING
>> that lies beyond it:
>>
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+the+purpose+of+the+fuse+in+an+english+mains+plug>
>>
>> If manufacturers wish to provide additional protection to any given
>> appliance to prevent avoidable damage to sensitive and perhaps expensive
>> equipment, potentially including damage caused by the user supplying the
>> wrong plug fuse, then of course that is their choice.  AFAIAA, although
>> there may be specific types of appliance where regulations stipulate
>> some sort of extra protection, generally speaking it isn't required by
>> law.  For example, in a bedside lamp, you don't find an additional fuse
>> between the cable from the plug and the actual light bulb.
>>
> 
> We worry too much about the correct plug fuse. Most domestic continental
> plugs are unfused and connect to a radial main fused at 16A at the consumer
> unit.

What you should be worried about is an insurance company not paying out 
for fire damage because they discovered an incorrect value fuse was 
being used, and a cable or the equipment being used overloaded and 
caught fire.

-- 
Jeff

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#249806

Jeff Layman <Jeff@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> On 15/09/2026 06:34, Tweed wrote:
>> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>>> On 2026-09-14 19:07, Bob Latham wrote:
>>>> In article <1188e76$1ckr7$1@dont-email.me>,
>>>> Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> NOT NECESSARILY TRUE!  The purpose of the plug fuse is to protect
>>>>> everything beyond it, which includes the extension cable that NY
>>>>> built as he described.
>>>> 
>>>> I almost agree. The single purpose of the fuse in a plug is to
>>>> protect the cable that follows it, NOT the appliance. If the
>>>> appliance needs protection the manufacturer should add that to
>>>> the appliance.
>>> 
>>> No, the purpose of the plug fuse is as I stated, to protect EVERYTHING
>>> that lies beyond it:
>>> 
>>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+the+purpose+of+the+fuse+in+an+english+mains+plug>
>>> 
>>> If manufacturers wish to provide additional protection to any given
>>> appliance to prevent avoidable damage to sensitive and perhaps expensive
>>> equipment, potentially including damage caused by the user supplying the
>>> wrong plug fuse, then of course that is their choice.  AFAIAA, although
>>> there may be specific types of appliance where regulations stipulate
>>> some sort of extra protection, generally speaking it isn't required by
>>> law.  For example, in a bedside lamp, you don't find an additional fuse
>>> between the cable from the plug and the actual light bulb.
>>> 
>> 
>> We worry too much about the correct plug fuse. Most domestic continental
>> plugs are unfused and connect to a radial main fused at 16A at the consumer
>> unit.
> 
> What you should be worried about is an insurance company not paying out 
> for fire damage because they discovered an incorrect value fuse was 
> being used, and a cable or the equipment being used overloaded and 
> caught fire.
> 

Really? I doubt is is reasonable for them to expect the average householder
to have the necessary electrical knowledge. Let’s face it, we can’t even
get most people to stop calling a 13A socket a plug-socket. 

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#249807

Jeff Layman wrote:

> What you should be worried about is an insurance company not paying out 
> for fire damage because they discovered an incorrect value fuse was 
> being used, and a cable or the equipment being used overloaded and 
> caught fire.

Ahhh, the mythical insurance company that never mentions any such 
conditions in their policy wording ...

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#249805

In article <118alds$25nv0$1@dont-email.me>,


> We worry too much about the correct plug fuse. Most domestic
> continental plugs are unfused and connect to a radial main fused at
> 16A at the consumer unit. 

Did you know that cables can and do catch fire which have the correct
limit breaker feeding them? The reason is long cables. Some cables at
length have enough resistance such that a near dead short at the far
end will not pass sufficient current to blow the breaker.

Spurs off ring main finals that are the same thickness as the ring
cables can sail very close to the wind on this if the run is quite
long like out to a garage or something. You have half the current
capability of the ring and the breaker is set for the ring.

I'm told it's a common problem in factories due to cable lengths used.


Bob.

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#249808

Bob Latham <bob@sick-of-spam.invalid> wrote:
> In article <118alds$25nv0$1@dont-email.me>,
> 
> 
>> We worry too much about the correct plug fuse. Most domestic
>> continental plugs are unfused and connect to a radial main fused at
>> 16A at the consumer unit. 
> 
> Did you know that cables can and do catch fire which have the correct
> limit breaker feeding them? The reason is long cables. Some cables at
> length have enough resistance such that a near dead short at the far
> end will not pass sufficient current to blow the breaker.
> 
> Spurs off ring main finals that are the same thickness as the ring
> cables can sail very close to the wind on this if the run is quite
> long like out to a garage or something. You have half the current
> capability of the ring and the breaker is set for the ring.
> 
> I'm told it's a common problem in factories due to cable lengths used.
> 
> 
> Bob.
> 
> 
Which has nothing to do with continental radial circuits only having a 16A
fuse between the consumer unit and the table lamp. A 13A plug top fuse for
the table lamp on our ring main is effectively the same thing. Sure, a 3A
fuse is theoretically better, but I’d like to see the figures for items
plugged into a wall socket catching fire by country before concluding that
there is a practical difference. 

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#249803

In article <1189mtv$1t36k$1@dont-email.me>,
   Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
> On 2026-09-14 19:07, Bob Latham wrote:
> > In article <1188e76$1ckr7$1@dont-email.me>,
> >     Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
> > 
> >> NOT NECESSARILY TRUE!  The purpose of the plug fuse is to protect
> >> everything beyond it, which includes the extension cable that NY
> >> built as he described.
> > 
> > I almost agree. The single purpose of the fuse in a plug is to
> > protect the cable that follows it, NOT the appliance. If the
> > appliance needs protection the manufacturer should add that to
> > the appliance.

> No, the purpose of the plug fuse is as I stated, to protect
> EVERYTHING that lies beyond it:

> <https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+the+purpose+of+the+fuse+in+an+english+mains+plug>

> If manufacturers wish to provide additional protection to any given
> appliance to prevent avoidable damage to sensitive and perhaps
> expensive equipment, potentially including damage caused by the
> user supplying the wrong plug fuse, then of course that is their
> choice.  AFAIAA, although there may be specific types of appliance
> where regulations stipulate some sort of extra protection,
> generally speaking it isn't required by law.  For example, in a
> bedside lamp, you don't find an additional fuse between the cable
> from the plug and the actual light bulb.

Until recent years, the vast majority of plug fuses in UK homes were
13amp because most people are too ignorant to know it's wrong. My
wife worked in an office where the considered wisdom was that 13 amp
were the best quality, I kid you not. 

A 13amp fuse will do nothing to protect the vast majority of items
people plug in.

Now have it your own way, I've learnt my lesson about having any
conversation with you. I should have known better yesterday.

As for your link, you can find links to back up any argument even
that CO2 @ 0.042% of the atmosphere (1 molecule in 23,000) controls
the climate. Or that you can change sex, or that open borders is a
good idea, etc. etc.

In an age of ideology, objective truth, reason and reality bite the
dust. 

Triggered?


Bob.

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#249809

On 2026-09-15 09:27, Bob Latham wrote:
> In article <1189mtv$1t36k$1@dont-email.me>,
>     Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>> On 2026-09-14 19:07, Bob Latham wrote:
>>> In article <1188e76$1ckr7$1@dont-email.me>,
>>>      Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
>>>
>>>> NOT NECESSARILY TRUE!  The purpose of the plug fuse is to protect
>>>> everything beyond it, which includes the extension cable that NY
>>>> built as he described.
>>>
>>> I almost agree. The single purpose of the fuse in a plug is to
>>> protect the cable that follows it, NOT the appliance. If the
>>> appliance needs protection the manufacturer should add that to
>>> the appliance.
> 
>> No, the purpose of the plug fuse is as I stated, to protect
>> EVERYTHING that lies beyond it:
> 
>> <https://www.google.com/search?q=what+is+the+purpose+of+the+fuse+in+an+english+mains+plug>
> 
>> If manufacturers wish to provide additional protection to any given
>> appliance to prevent avoidable damage to sensitive and perhaps
>> expensive equipment, potentially including damage caused by the
>> user supplying the wrong plug fuse, then of course that is their
>> choice.  AFAIAA, although there may be specific types of appliance
>> where regulations stipulate some sort of extra protection,
>> generally speaking it isn't required by law.  For example, in a
>> bedside lamp, you don't find an additional fuse between the cable
>> from the plug and the actual light bulb.
> 
> Until recent years, the vast majority of plug fuses in UK homes were
> 13amp because most people are too ignorant to know it's wrong. My
> wife worked in an office where the considered wisdom was that 13 amp
> were the best quality, I kid you not.
> 
> A 13amp fuse will do nothing to protect the vast majority of items
> people plug in.

Which reinforces my point.  As I've already given examples of upthread, 
anyone with any electrical knowledge has encountered similar things for 
themselves.

> [Bullshit snipped]

> Triggered?

No, it's just you being a dishonest troll again.  Everyone here knows 
the failings of your character, and that, despite the myriad 
opportunities you get to practice, you can never accept, still less 
admit, when you are wrong.

-- 

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website: 
www.macfh.co.uk

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#249810

In article <118b3it$2actl$1@dont-email.me>,
   Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:

> Which reinforces my point.  As I've already given examples of
> upthread, anyone with any electrical knowledge has encountered
> similar things for themselves.

A measly 3 amp plug fuse will enable over 700 watts in the appliance.
Do explain what appliance has a cable suitable for a 3a fuse and
could tolerate up to 700 watts without being destroyed?

A table lamp? A set top box? a door bell? a phone charger?

What nonsense. It can't protect any of them, it's for the cable.

But you carry on as you always do, arguing crap for the sake of it. 

Bob.

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#249811

On 2026-09-15 11:03, Bob Latham wrote:
> In article <118b3it$2actl$1@dont-email.me>,
>     Java Jive <java@evij.com.invalid> wrote:
> 
>> Which reinforces my point.  As I've already given examples of
>> upthread, anyone with any electrical knowledge has encountered
>> similar things for themselves.
> 
> A measly 3 amp plug fuse will enable over 700 watts in the appliance.
> Do explain what appliance has a cable suitable for a 3a fuse and
> could tolerate up to 700 watts without being destroyed?
> 
> A table lamp? 

Case in point.  I've had failing bulbs cause a 3A to blow, but the lamp 
fitting was completely unharmed.

> A set top box? a door bell? a phone charger?
> 
> What nonsense. It can't protect any of them, it's for the cable.

-- 

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website: 
www.macfh.co.uk

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#249786

On 08/09/2026 08:54, Roderick Stewart wrote:
> There are only three of them and they're in every home. How difficult
> can it be? It's not like being a professional who has to remember the
> resistor colour code and wiring codes like Blue, Orange, Green, Brown,
> Slate, and then White, Red, Black, Yellow, Violet.
> 
> Not only are there just three colours to remember, but your life can
> quite literally depend on getting them right. You'd think it would be
> worth the effort.


The sale of equipment without a plug is now restricted.

https://www.morvantrading.co.uk/uk-plugs-must-be-factory-fitted/

So most people never have to fit a plug which makes them completely 
unfamiliar with wire colours.

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#249794

On Tue, 8 Sep 2026 10:02:49 +0100, JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> wrote:

>The sale of equipment without a plug is now restricted.
>
>https://www.morvantrading.co.uk/uk-plugs-must-be-factory-fitted/
>
>So most people never have to fit a plug which makes them completely 
>unfamiliar with wire colours.
>

I'm evidently one of a dying breed, drowning in an ever encroaching
sea of ignorance and incompetence, whilst the practical knowledge
we've built up over a lifetime gradually becomes increasingly useless.
I can still remember - for example - the pin connections for an HL2
triode valve, but it's unlikely I'll ever use this knowledge again.

Rod.

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#249795

On 08/09/2026 20:14, Roderick Stewart wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Sep 2026 10:02:49 +0100, JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> wrote:
> 
>> The sale of equipment without a plug is now restricted.
>>
>> https://www.morvantrading.co.uk/uk-plugs-must-be-factory-fitted/
>>
>> So most people never have to fit a plug which makes them completely
>> unfamiliar with wire colours.
>>
> 
> I'm evidently one of a dying breed, drowning in an ever encroaching
> sea of ignorance and incompetence, whilst the practical knowledge
> we've built up over a lifetime gradually becomes increasingly useless.
> I can still remember - for example - the pin connections for an HL2
> triode valve, but it's unlikely I'll ever use this knowledge again.
> 
> Rod.

The HL2 only has 4 pins and two of those are for the heater, so you only 
have to remember which way round the anode and grid are.

I have cheating material though.  When a local TV and Radio Repairs shop 
near me closed down many years ago I managed to scrounge his Valve 
Characteristics book which has sat on my shelf doing nothing for years.

I do still have a working radiogram (medium and long wave valve radio) 
that plays 78 records if I put a needle in the tone arm, but while it 
still works when I turn the radio on I am definitely not going to take 
the back off it.

Jim

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#249813

On Tue, 08 Sep 2026 08:54:39 +0100, Roderick Stewart
<rjfs@escapetime.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

> There are only three of them and they're in every home. How difficult
> can it be?

Obviously it's not difficult to look it up or ask someone, but the lazy
guy just guessed and hoped. What an idiot.

> It's not like being a professional who has to remember the
> resistor colour code and wiring codes like Blue, Orange, Green, Brown,
> Slate, and then White, Red, Black, Yellow, Violet.

But how often does 25 pair cable get used these days? Almost everything
seems to be done in 4 pair now.
Oh what fun we had diagnosing split pairs where one of my colleagues had
half confused blue-blue/red with blue-blue/black or similar.

> Not only are there just three colours to remember, but your life can
> quite literally depend on getting them right. You'd think it would be
> worth the effort.

I guess people think electricity isn't dangerous any more, until they find
out that it is when they take liberties with it.

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#249791

In article <8irs9l1ou6hdogpmkao2gqm8p5hgqd7m56@4ax.com>, Roderick
Stewart <rjfs@escapetime.myzen.co.uk> writes
>On Sun, 6 Sep 2026 20:40:03 +0100, John Hall <john@jhall.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>I was very glad when it ceased to be necessary to wire a plug. As
>>someone who is very maladroit, it was a struggle, and I was always
>>worried that I might have done it incorrectly, with possible dire
>>results for the piece of equipment or the mains fuse.
>
>If you look carefully, you will see that the letters L N and E are
>moulded into the plastic, and new ones are often supplied with a
>little piece of cardboard with a diagram showing the colours.
>
>Rod.

That wasn't really the issue for me. It was more whether I had managed
to make all the connections secure.
-- 
John Hall 

                    "The covers of this book are too far apart."   
                                      Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914)

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#249776

On 04/09/2026 23:06, JMB99 wrote:
> On 04/09/2026 12:11, David Wade wrote:
>> Why would a modern car manual contain such outdated info. Modern cars 
>> are pretty much maintenance free.  You needed to set the tappets 
>> often, they wore. Modern cars have hydraulic tappets that don't need 
>> setting. Plug gaps don't change and the have electronic ignition so no 
>> points or timing.
> 
> 
> But most cars will have lots of systems, some of which need a 
> description on how to operate them and many the drivers will possibly be 
> unaware of.
> 
> I am not suggesting they should be an equivalent of the old Haynes manual.

But the old Haynes manuals often referred to a picture that looked 
nothing like what you were looking at after following the previous 
instruction. :)


-- 
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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#249778

On 05/09/2026 10:05, alan_m wrote:
> On 04/09/2026 23:06, JMB99 wrote:
>> On 04/09/2026 12:11, David Wade wrote:

>>> Why would a modern car manual contain such outdated info. Modern cars 
>>> are pretty much maintenance free.  You needed to set the tappets 
>>> often, they wore. Modern cars have hydraulic tappets that don't need 
>>> setting. Plug gaps don't change and the have electronic ignition so 
>>> no points or timing.
>>
>>
>> But most cars will have lots of systems, some of which need a 
>> description on how to operate them and many the drivers will possibly 
>> be unaware of.
>>
>> I am not suggesting they should be an equivalent of the old Haynes 
>> manual.
> 
> But the old Haynes manuals often referred to a picture that looked 
> nothing like what you were looking at after following the previous 
> instruction. :)

The Haynes manual for the Capri was for the US Mercury Capri with LHD 
and AC.

-- 
Max Demian

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#249761

On 2026-09-04 10:30, Bob Latham wrote:
> 
> I was reading somewhere the other day that in the 1960s and 70s car
> handbooks that came with the car, told how to gap the plugs, set the
> points and even adjust the tappets. Now they tell you not to drink
> the battery acid.

Presumably for Donald Trump's benefit :-)

But as a matter of interest I downloaded the PDF manual for my car and 
searched for 'acid'.  There are indeed no end of warnings of the obvious 
type such as do not let acid (in general, not specifically from the 
battery, though that is the most obvious potential source) get on to the 
paintwork, seat belts, etc, and it does even say that it will corrode 
your teeth and gums and if you should swallow some, seek immediate 
medical help!

Which reminds of two humorous (one at my own expense) tales I've told 
before, but perhaps bear repeating ...

At uni, some friends sharing one of the accommodation flats ran out of 
washing up liquid when doing the chores after dinner, so took a cup next 
door to borrow some.  They then went out on the town, got as drunk as 
might be expected from the fact that they were, after all, students, 
came back, made and drank some coffee, and went to bed.  As is commonly 
the case after a heavy drinking session, one of them woke in the middle 
of the night, needing a piss and suffering from a raging thirst. 
Turning on the cold tap at the sink, guess which cup he used to get 
himself a drink ...

Remember the days when you were allowed to make yourself decent tea and 
coffee at work, before for 'safety reasons' offices removed all the 
kettles, forcing you to drink the crap out of the drinks machines?

Once at work, when I had a particular problem I had been unable to 
solve, I decided I needed a break and went and made myself a cup of 
coffee, with a kettle.  However, I was still mulling over the problem. 
There was a packet of something or other near the kettle which, at a 
casual, absent-minded glance I took to be someone's medication that 
they'd left.  I boiled the water that was in the kettle, and made the 
coffee.  Fortunately, the milk curdled as I put it in, so I assumed it 
had gone sour, but there being no other, I took the first tentative sip 
when still in the kitchen, so was able to spit it out and rinse my mouth 
out immediately.  Only then did I read the label on the packet. It said: 
"Kettle descaler"!

I wonder if I'm the sort of reason they removed all the kettles?

-- 

Fake news kills!

I may be contacted via the contact address given on my website: 
www.macfh.co.uk

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#249764

On Fri 04/09/2026 12:12, Java Jive wrote:
> On 2026-09-04 10:30, Bob Latham wrote:
>>
>> I was reading somewhere the other day that in the 1960s and 70s car
>> handbooks that came with the car, told how to gap the plugs, set the
>> points and even adjust the tappets. Now they tell you not to drink
>> the battery acid.
> 
> Presumably for Donald Trump's benefit :-)
> 
> But as a matter of interest I downloaded the PDF manual for my car and 
> searched for 'acid'.  There are indeed no end of warnings of the obvious 
> type such as do not let acid (in general, not specifically from the 
> battery, though that is the most obvious potential source) get on to the 
> paintwork, seat belts, etc, and it does even say that it will corrode 
> your teeth and gums and if you should swallow some, seek immediate 
> medical help!
> 
> Which reminds of two humorous (one at my own expense) tales I've told 
> before, but perhaps bear repeating ...
> 
> At uni, some friends sharing one of the accommodation flats ran out of 
> washing up liquid when doing the chores after dinner, so took a cup next 
> door to borrow some.  They then went out on the town, got as drunk as 
> might be expected from the fact that they were, after all, students, 
> came back, made and drank some coffee, and went to bed.  As is commonly 
> the case after a heavy drinking session, one of them woke in the middle 
> of the night, needing a piss and suffering from a raging thirst. Turning 
> on the cold tap at the sink, guess which cup he used to get himself a 
> drink ...
> 
> Remember the days when you were allowed to make yourself decent tea and 
> coffee at work, before for 'safety reasons' offices removed all the 
> kettles, forcing you to drink the crap out of the drinks machines?
> 
> Once at work, when I had a particular problem I had been unable to 
> solve, I decided I needed a break and went and made myself a cup of 
> coffee, with a kettle.  However, I was still mulling over the problem. 
> There was a packet of something or other near the kettle which, at a 
> casual, absent-minded glance I took to be someone's medication that 
> they'd left.  I boiled the water that was in the kettle, and made the 
> coffee.  Fortunately, the milk curdled as I put it in, so I assumed it 
> had gone sour, but there being no other, I took the first tentative sip 
> when still in the kitchen, so was able to spit it out and rinse my mouth 
> out immediately.  Only then did I read the label on the packet. It said: 
> "Kettle descaler"!
> 
> I wonder if I'm the sort of reason they removed all the kettles?
> 

Clearly TNALUY.





(They're Not All Locked Up Yet....)

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#249792

On 04/09/2026 10:30, Bob Latham wrote:
> In article <117drmq$do1v$1@dont-email.me>,
>     JMB99 <mb@nospam.net> wrote:
> 
>> All it tells you is how to change the batteries in the remote
>> control and a couple of very obvious warnings which I doubt that
>> many read.
> 
> I was reading somewhere the other day that in the 1960s and 70s car
> handbooks that came with the car, told how to gap the plugs, set the
> points and even adjust the tappets. Now they tell you not to drink
> the battery acid.
> 
> Bob.
> 
The older handbooks also told you which oils to use where, and what to 
do on each service.

The modern batteries make it difficult to get at the battery acid, so 
drinking it would need some determination.

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