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Groups > sci.electronics.design > #517869 > unrolled thread
| Started by | Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> |
|---|---|
| First post | 2018-09-28 20:26 -0700 |
| Last post | 2018-10-01 17:06 -0700 |
| Articles | 20 on this page of 85 — 28 participants |
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OT: Oh Deere Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> - 2018-09-28 20:26 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere <698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org> - 2018-09-29 04:05 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-09-29 08:58 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk> - 2018-09-29 10:33 +0100
Re: OT: Oh Deere tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2018-09-28 21:39 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere bitrex <user@example.net> - 2018-09-29 00:43 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere DLUNU <DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@DLU.org> - 2018-09-29 08:15 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere jurb6006@gmail.com - 2018-09-29 08:12 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeroen Belleman <jeroen@nospam.please> - 2018-09-29 14:13 +0200
Re: OT: Oh Deere <698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org> - 2018-09-29 12:46 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere jurb6006@gmail.com - 2018-09-29 08:22 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> - 2018-09-30 12:28 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere jurb6006@gmail.com - 2018-09-29 08:16 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com - 2018-09-29 10:04 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2018-09-29 12:33 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere amdx <nojunk@knology.net> - 2018-09-29 13:12 -0500
Re: OT: Oh Deere Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> - 2018-09-30 01:09 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> - 2018-09-29 12:48 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2018-09-29 13:30 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> - 2018-09-30 07:09 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-29 14:03 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) - 2018-09-29 14:36 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-29 22:05 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-09-30 12:23 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-30 10:03 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2018-09-30 10:27 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-09-30 17:56 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-30 11:10 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-09-30 21:20 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-30 16:14 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere krw@notreal.com - 2018-09-30 21:12 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2018-10-01 10:33 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2018-10-01 07:53 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2018-10-01 19:04 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2018-10-02 05:59 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-02 17:32 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2018-10-02 11:45 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2018-10-02 20:15 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> - 2018-10-03 12:26 +0300
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-03 10:46 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-03 10:09 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-03 12:13 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-03 16:40 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-03 16:55 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-03 22:09 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-03 16:21 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-04 17:27 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-04 15:53 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> - 2018-10-04 23:58 +0100
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-04 23:51 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2018-10-03 18:36 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere DLUNU <DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@DLU.org> - 2018-10-01 16:22 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-02 17:26 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com - 2018-10-02 10:29 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere <698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org> - 2018-10-01 15:00 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-01 09:52 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere <698839253X6D445TD@nospam.org> - 2018-10-01 17:38 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> - 2018-10-02 10:49 +1000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-01 19:25 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-02 17:42 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2018-10-02 10:19 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2018-10-01 19:08 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Steve Wilson <9fe142ac@gmail.com> - 2018-10-01 13:28 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-01 14:08 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-01 16:30 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2018-10-01 16:48 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-01 16:48 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-01 19:34 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-02 08:04 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-10-02 17:49 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-03 10:13 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-10-01 16:10 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere amdx <nojunk@knology.net> - 2018-10-01 20:01 -0500
Re: OT: Oh Deere gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com - 2018-10-02 09:16 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> - 2018-09-29 22:54 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2018-09-29 19:34 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere bitrex <user@example.net> - 2018-10-04 19:22 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-29 22:28 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk> - 2018-09-30 08:26 +0100
Re: OT: Oh Deere DLUNU <DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@DLU.org> - 2018-09-30 10:55 +0000
Re: OT: Oh Deere bitrex <user@example.net> - 2018-10-04 19:18 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Pomegranate Bastard <pommyB@dsl.pipex.com> - 2018-10-08 11:56 +0100
Re: OT: Oh Deere "Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> - 2018-09-30 18:58 -0400
Re: OT: Oh Deere Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2018-09-30 19:14 -0700
Re: OT: Oh Deere Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2018-10-01 17:06 -0700
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-29 14:03 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <udovqd107k2uiebb1pcf2onu4i05avd3uj@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #517869 |
On Fri, 28 Sep 2018 20:26:17 -0700, Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> wrote: > From recent Manward Digest: > >Here's something most folks don't know... Smoking near your Apple >computer can void the warranty. The internet is filled with horror >stories of folks who took their devices to the company for repairs but >were denied coverage due to evidence the machine had been subjected to >smoke. Apple says you can't smoke on its corporate campus... or at home. I fix computahs, monitors, printers, etc to support my decadent and lavish lifestyle. When I'm asked to fix a device that has been coated with a condensed layer of smelly brown tar and combustion product, I either charge a fairly large amount for the cleaning, or I refuse to fix it. There are plenty of failures that can be directly attributed to this layer crud. For example, the fans tend to stick, optical limit switches in printers stop functioning, CD/DVD drive optical pickups don't work, controls become sticky, and push button switches fail to make contact. When cleaning, I don't want to volatize that crap and make my palatial office stink equally disgusting. So, I do the work outside, which is somewhat awkward. The 24" monitor I'm currently using at home (Samsung SyncMaster 243T) was given to me for free by a frustrated smoker who couldn't understand why every repair shop in town refused to fix her monitor. It took about 1.5 gallons of 91% alcohol, some ecologically incorrect cleaner, and a large plastic tub to remove the crud. Even so, the stink didn't go away completely, so I had to baptize the monitor again a week later, this time scrubbing the tar away with a brush. Three years later, it still produces a slight tobacco stench on a hot day. I'm very much in favor of the right to repair, but not when the owner doesn't know how to take care of the equipment, or just doesn't bother or care. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-29 14:36 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <ir758f-s4v.ln1@coop.radagast.org> |
| In reply to | #517956 |
In article <udovqd107k2uiebb1pcf2onu4i05avd3uj@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >I fix computahs, monitors, printers, etc to support my decadent and >lavish lifestyle. When I'm asked to fix a device that has been coated >with a condensed layer of smelly brown tar and combustion product, I >either charge a fairly large amount for the cleaning, or I refuse to >fix it. There are plenty of failures that can be directly attributed >to this layer crud. For example, the fans tend to stick, optical >limit switches in printers stop functioning, CD/DVD drive optical >pickups don't work, controls become sticky, and push button switches >fail to make contact. I recall reading, years ago, that tobacco-smoke tar was the terror of audio servicers working on tape decks. The tar would gunk up the heads something awful. There were other problems with preamps and receivers... volume and balance controls would become noisy, selector switches intermittent, and so forth. >When cleaning, I don't want to volatize that crap and make my palatial >office stink equally disgusting. So, I do the work outside, which is >somewhat awkward. One trick that can help, apparently, is to open the chassis up and expose it to direct, bright summer sunlight for several days. The heat and UV can help break down the tars. Consumer Reports used to (and perhaps still does) use tobacco-smoke tar as the exemplar "difficult to remove" test material for comparing glass cleaners and surface cleaners.
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-29 22:05 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <eek0rdhrpk84pura3rqfa0h4muvpdejivk@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #517963 |
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 14:36:18 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote: >In article <udovqd107k2uiebb1pcf2onu4i05avd3uj@4ax.com>, >Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: > >>I fix computahs, monitors, printers, etc to support my decadent and >>lavish lifestyle. When I'm asked to fix a device that has been coated >>with a condensed layer of smelly brown tar and combustion product, I >>either charge a fairly large amount for the cleaning, or I refuse to >>fix it. There are plenty of failures that can be directly attributed >>to this layer crud. For example, the fans tend to stick, optical >>limit switches in printers stop functioning, CD/DVD drive optical >>pickups don't work, controls become sticky, and push button switches >>fail to make contact. >I recall reading, years ago, that tobacco-smoke tar was the terror of >audio servicers working on tape decks. The tar would gunk up the >heads something awful. There were other problems with preamps and >receivers... volume and balance controls would become noisy, selector >switches intermittent, and so forth. When I was fixing tape recorders (about 1966) I didn't seem much tobacco damage. That's because I was doing mostly warranty work, where the tape recorder wasn't in service long enough to have accumulated sufficient smoke to become a nuisance. However, the out of warranty repairs were often full of tar and stench, exhibiting all the symptoms you describe. Even so, it was rare because much of the low end audio equipment of the day (including those with tubes) did NOT include a cooling fan. >>When cleaning, I don't want to volatize that crap and make my palatial >>office stink equally disgusting. So, I do the work outside, which is >>somewhat awkward. >One trick that can help, apparently, is to open the chassis up and >expose it to direct, bright summer sunlight for several days. The >heat and UV can help break down the tars. Nope. Light, heat, and possibly UV hardens the tar into a varnish like coating which amazingly is not very sticky. That works fine until the device is exposed to any VoC (volatile organic compound) or solvent, such as furniture polish, room freshener, air pollution, household cleaners, etc where it again becomes a sticky and smelly goo. >Consumer Reports used to (and perhaps still does) use tobacco-smoke >tar as the exemplar "difficult to remove" test material for comparing >glass cleaners and surface cleaners. I would classify cat spray as the worst. Cats like to mark their ownership of the things they like, which often includes nice warm monitors and laptops: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/cat-on-keyboard.jpg> Removing the cat is almost as difficult as removing the smell. What makes tobacco smog difficult to remove is that it tends to be uniformly distributed throughout the inside of the device. Literally everything has to be wiped down with alcohol, usually several times. Inaccessible locations contain enough tar to perpetuate the stench. I've found that alcohol immersion therapy to be the only effective solution (pardon the pun). I'm undecided if saving the used cleaning alcohol is a good idea. I have about 4 gallons of filthy, smelly, and flammable alcohol available for the purpose. I've found no easy way to purify the alcohol. It's rather expensive having to buy more every time I need to clean something big: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIPPING-5-GALLON-ISOPROPYL-ALCOHOL-IPA-91-HIGH-PURITY-GRADE/172932799093?> So I've saved some of the used alcohol in a paint locker at home and drag it to the office as needed. Self-repair manifesto: <https://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 12:23 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <poqf7i$a11$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #517994 |
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 22:05:10 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > I'm undecided if saving the used cleaning alcohol is a good idea. I > have about 4 gallons of filthy, smelly, and flammable alcohol available > for the purpose. I've found no easy way to purify the alcohol. Which methods have you considered? -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 10:03 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <ogs1rdpkojfmbhl39e8ljcjrjegkflna6b@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #518008 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 12:23:15 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> wrote: >On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 22:05:10 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >> I'm undecided if saving the used cleaning alcohol is a good idea. I >> have about 4 gallons of filthy, smelly, and flammable alcohol available >> for the purpose. I've found no easy way to purify the alcohol. >Which methods have you considered? Those I think have a chance of working: paper cone filters, centrifuge, screen adhesion, and flocculation. Those that might work, but were either too messy, complex, dangerous, or expensive: freezing, and evaporative distillation. Using a porous paper cone has so far been the most effective. Tobacco tar seems to be a rather large molecule compared to IPA (16.3 angstroms molecular diameter). I tried a molecular sieve (Size 5A recycled from a medical oxygen generator) and was able to separate IPA and water (2.63 angstroms), which just increased the tar concentration in the remaining IPA. I don't have a good supply of filter paper, so I used coffee filters (20 microns pore size), which is 10,000 times too big, but amazingly worked fairly well. However, the filters clogged with tar rather easily. I ended up with a slightly yellow-brown IPA that still reeked of tobacco as the IPA evaporated. I should probably buy some smaller pore size (1 micron glass fiber?) filters. Screen adhesion looked interesting and sorta worked. Essentially, I just rolled up a wire screen and stirred the IPA with it. The sticky tar tended to stick to the screen. I haven't done much with this because of the mess involved in cleaning the wire screens. A similar system can be made using a sponge. Dip and wring out. The tar will tend to stick to the sponge. On a small scale test, a cellulose sponge worked the best. However, I would need to buy a large quantity of sponges for this to work, which might cost more than the IPA I'm trying to clean. Flocculation requires a clarifying chemical that causes the tiny particles of ash to clump together, come out of colloidal suspension, and then sink to the bottom of the bottle. My guess(tm) is the ash will drag the tar with it. I haven't found the proper clarifying agent yet, mostly because I haven't looked or asked. Obviously, this is not a high priority project for me and further experimental progress is unlikely. Drivel: I'm still working on "curing" the sticky fake rubber paint used by Logitech to insure that their mouse and keyboard products are prematurely recycled. So far, the best I can do is remove the rubber paint with 91% IPA and lots of rubbing with a paper towel. I haven't tried ethyl or methyl alcohol yet. Stay tuned. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | tabbypurr@gmail.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 10:27 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <717e5908-ac99-4f39-85d9-917e6cd137fc@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #518021 |
On Sunday, 30 September 2018 18:03:36 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 12:23:15 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom > <curd@notformail.com> wrote: > > >On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 22:05:10 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > > > >> I'm undecided if saving the used cleaning alcohol is a good idea. I > >> have about 4 gallons of filthy, smelly, and flammable alcohol available > >> for the purpose. I've found no easy way to purify the alcohol. > > >Which methods have you considered? > > Those I think have a chance of working: paper cone filters, > centrifuge, screen adhesion, and flocculation. > > Those that might work, but were either too messy, complex, dangerous, > or expensive: freezing, and evaporative distillation. > > Using a porous paper cone has so far been the most effective. Tobacco > tar seems to be a rather large molecule compared to IPA (16.3 > angstroms molecular diameter). I tried a molecular sieve (Size 5A > recycled from a medical oxygen generator) and was able to separate IPA > and water (2.63 angstroms), which just increased the tar concentration > in the remaining IPA. I don't have a good supply of filter paper, so > I used coffee filters (20 microns pore size), which is 10,000 times > too big, but amazingly worked fairly well. However, the filters > clogged with tar rather easily. I ended up with a slightly > yellow-brown IPA that still reeked of tobacco as the IPA evaporated. I > should probably buy some smaller pore size (1 micron glass fiber?) > filters. > > Screen adhesion looked interesting and sorta worked. Essentially, I > just rolled up a wire screen and stirred the IPA with it. The sticky > tar tended to stick to the screen. I haven't done much with this > because of the mess involved in cleaning the wire screens. > > A similar system can be made using a sponge. Dip and wring out. The > tar will tend to stick to the sponge. On a small scale test, a > cellulose sponge worked the best. However, I would need to buy a > large quantity of sponges for this to work, which might cost more than > the IPA I'm trying to clean. > > Flocculation requires a clarifying chemical that causes the tiny > particles of ash to clump together, come out of colloidal suspension, > and then sink to the bottom of the bottle. My guess(tm) is the ash > will drag the tar with it. I haven't found the proper clarifying > agent yet, mostly because I haven't looked or asked. > > Obviously, this is not a high priority project for me and further > experimental progress is unlikely. I'd be tempted to cold distill it. Put the container in a clear bag for insulation. Add something black to the IPA. Put it in a sunn window. A tube runs from IPA lid to another container in the shade. Come back a month later it should be done. NT
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| From | Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 17:56 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <por2og$k8s$2@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518021 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 10:03:30 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > Those I think have a chance of working: paper cone filters, centrifuge, > screen adhesion, and flocculation. > > Those that might work, but were either too messy, complex, dangerous, or > expensive: freezing, and evaporative distillation. Then you're obviously clued-up sufficiently well already for me to add anything to the above. The only other thing I can think of would be an adsorbtion wand, but that's a bit abstruse. How about activated charcoal? -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 11:10 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <ip32rddui934vl66fb93p2m0npqssoq130@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #518026 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 17:56:32 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> wrote: >On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 10:03:30 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >> Those I think have a chance of working: paper cone filters, centrifuge, >> screen adhesion, and flocculation. >> >> Those that might work, but were either too messy, complex, dangerous, or >> expensive: freezing, and evaporative distillation. >Then you're obviously clued-up sufficiently well already for me to add >anything to the above. The only other thing I can think of would be an >adsorbtion wand, but that's a bit abstruse. How about activated charcoal? The adsorption wand is similar to my screen adhesion scheme. Stir the solution and the goo sticks to the surface of the stirring rod. I forgot about activated charcoal. Yes, I could make a moonshine filter that would probably clean up the alcohol. Something like this: "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other Cheap Liquors!" <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for-Whiskey-Vodka/> Looks easy enough to try on a small scale to see if it has a chance. Thanks much. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 21:20 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <poremo$k8s$3@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518027 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other > Cheap Liquors!" > <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for- Whiskey-Vodka/> Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten soldering! :-D -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 16:14 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <7pk2rdhe86jlirsigi8hust5fqn02tcfdf@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #518034 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 21:20:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> wrote: >On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other >> Cheap Liquors!" >> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for-Whiskey-Vodka/> >Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem >with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so >it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten >soldering! :-D No. Is there a reason that you're trying to kill me? Two problems: 1. I don't drink booze. 2. Methylated spirits, denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, IPA, etc, are not drinkable, unless you are a masochist and enjoy the taste of methanol, pyridine, naphtha, methyl ethyl ketone, denatonium benzoate, ethyl acetate, or other disgusting chemical, any of which will surely inspire a visit to the vomitorium or the local hospital. Also, I rather doubt that your soldering will improve while under the influence of whatever you're drinking. If you feel the need to improve the beverage with some additional filtering, please do your own taste testing. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-09-30 21:12 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <k3t2rdhc83rm24r1c3tsf96i87e7ndlbpj@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #518046 |
On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 16:14:55 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: >On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 21:20:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom ><curd@notformail.com> wrote: > >>On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >> >>> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other >>> Cheap Liquors!" >>> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for-Whiskey-Vodka/> > >>Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem >>with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so >>it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten >>soldering! :-D > >No. Is there a reason that you're trying to kill me? > >Two problems: >1. I don't drink booze. >2. Methylated spirits, denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, IPA, etc, >are not drinkable, unless you are a masochist and enjoy the taste of >methanol, pyridine, naphtha, methyl ethyl ketone, denatonium benzoate, >ethyl acetate, or other disgusting chemical, any of which will surely >inspire a visit to the vomitorium or the local hospital. > >Also, I rather doubt that your soldering will improve while under the >influence of whatever you're drinking. If you feel the need to >improve the beverage with some additional filtering, please do your >own taste testing. Soldering will improve if what you're soldering is clean. ;-)
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| From | Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-01 10:33 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <1-adnQzx1f-DrS_GnZ2dnUU7-WednZ2d@supernews.com> |
| In reply to | #518034 |
On 09/30/2018 05:20 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other >> Cheap Liquors!" >> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for- > Whiskey-Vodka/> > > > Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem > with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so > it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten > soldering! :-D Minimum hand tremor for many folks occurs at about 0.5 beers. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net https://hobbs-eo.com
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| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-01 07:53 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <37816cae-26c2-41a5-8bef-13c7b0c4ccc2@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #518075 |
On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 10:33:12 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: > On 09/30/2018 05:20 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > > On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > > > >> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other > >> Cheap Liquors!" > >> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for- > > Whiskey-Vodka/> > > > > > > Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem > > with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so > > it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten > > soldering! :-D > > Minimum hand tremor for many folks occurs at about 0.5 beers. 1/2 a Guinness according to my irish/ american colleague who would attach ridiculously small wires to ridiculously small samples. George H. > > Cheers > > Phil Hobbs > > > -- > Dr Philip C D Hobbs > Principal Consultant > ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics > Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics > Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 > > http://electrooptical.net > https://hobbs-eo.com
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| From | Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-01 19:04 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <pou958$tu1$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518078 |
On 10/1/18 10:53 AM, George Herold wrote: > On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 10:33:12 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: >> On 09/30/2018 05:20 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote: >>> On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >>> >>>> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other >>>> Cheap Liquors!" >>>> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for- >>> Whiskey-Vodka/> >>> >>> >>> Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem >>> with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so >>> it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten >>> soldering! :-D >> >> Minimum hand tremor for many folks occurs at about 0.5 beers. > 1/2 a Guinness according to my irish/ american colleague who would attach > ridiculously small wires to ridiculously small samples. > > George H. >> You're probably the source of that statistic. ;) Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com
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| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-02 05:59 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <4fffca04-2dad-4d93-a0d8-357959c54f7f@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #518094 |
On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 7:04:12 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: > On 10/1/18 10:53 AM, George Herold wrote: > > On Monday, October 1, 2018 at 10:33:12 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: > >> On 09/30/2018 05:20 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > >>> On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 11:10:53 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > >>> > >>>> "Alcohol Filter - a Giant Brita for Whiskey, Vodka, Gin, Rum, or Other > >>>> Cheap Liquors!" > >>>> <https://www.instructables.com/id/Alcohol-Filter-A-Giant-Brita-for- > >>> Whiskey-Vodka/> > >>> > >>> > >>> Do please let us know how it works out for you. I have a massive problem > >>> with minute trace impurities in spirits (not the cheap ones, either) so > >>> it could be a real boon for me too. Might even improve my rotten > >>> soldering! :-D > >> > >> Minimum hand tremor for many folks occurs at about 0.5 beers. > > 1/2 a Guinness according to my irish/ american colleague who would attach > > ridiculously small wires to ridiculously small samples. > > > > George H. > >> > > You're probably the source of that statistic. ;) I think it's just an excuse for keeping a few beers in the lab frig. George H. > > Cheers > > Phil Hobbs > > > > -- > Dr Philip C D Hobbs > Principal Consultant > ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics > Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics > Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 > > http://electrooptical.net > http://hobbs-eo.com
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| From | Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-02 17:32 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <pp0a2q$ral$3@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518114 |
On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 05:59:34 -0700, George Herold wrote: > I think it's just an excuse for keeping a few beers in the lab frig. Even in the good ol' 70s it was regarded as really bad practice to keep beer in a lab fridge - it could even get you fired! So we'd decant it into opaque reagent bottles and label it as hydroflouric acid. Never failed! :-) This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-02 11:45 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <8c0a5c57-1f08-4646-b4d2-fc0320b46814@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #518138 |
On Tuesday, October 2, 2018 at 1:32:14 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote: > On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 05:59:34 -0700, George Herold wrote: > > > I think it's just an excuse for keeping a few beers in the lab frig. > > Even in the good ol' 70s it was regarded as really bad practice to keep > beer in a lab fridge - it could even get you fired! So we'd decant it > into opaque reagent bottles and label it as hydroflouric acid. Never > failed! :-) Lab frig was the frig in the lab... it mostly was for food, maybe some batteries and epoxy in the freezer. Chemicals stayed in the chemical hood. And no HF, except in the clean room. George H. > > > > > This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via > the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other > protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of > GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet > protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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| From | Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-02 20:15 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <pp11n8$j5c$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518138 |
On 10/2/18 1:32 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 05:59:34 -0700, George Herold wrote: > >> I think it's just an excuse for keeping a few beers in the lab frig. > > Even in the good ol' 70s it was regarded as really bad practice to keep > beer in a lab fridge - it could even get you fired! So we'd decant it > into opaque reagent bottles and label it as hydroflouric acid. Never > failed! :-) Until somebody put real HF in the fridge. ;) Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com
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| From | Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-03 12:26 +0300 |
| Message-ID | <m2sh1njs8y.fsf@nospam.fi> |
| In reply to | #518138 |
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> writes: > On Tue, 02 Oct 2018 05:59:34 -0700, George Herold wrote: > >> I think it's just an excuse for keeping a few beers in the lab frig. > > Even in the good ol' 70s it was regarded as really bad practice to keep > beer in a lab fridge - it could even get you fired! So we'd decant it > into opaque reagent bottles and label it as hydroflouric acid. Never > failed! :-) Did some projects for the beverage and food industry. It was strictly forbidden to eat or drink anything in the lab. Samples manufactured there had to be taken out of lab for tasting. -- mikko
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| From | Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2018-10-03 10:46 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <pp26mj$1vu$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #518181 |
On Wed, 03 Oct 2018 12:26:21 +0300, Mikko OH2HVJ wrote: > Did some projects for the beverage and food industry. It was strictly > forbidden to eat or drink anything in the lab. Samples manufactured > there had to be taken out of lab for tasting. Yes, and the codes of practice only ever get more stringent as regards lab safety. Jeff might do well to get some test strips for his IPA if he plans on keeping it around for long as unstable peroxides can form over time and it's better to be safe than sorry! -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
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