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Groups > sci.electronics.design > #480846 > unrolled thread
| Started by | "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> |
|---|---|
| First post | 2017-10-08 15:40 -0500 |
| Last post | 2017-10-12 00:32 -0700 |
| Articles | 20 on this page of 28 — 17 participants |
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Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> - 2017-10-08 15:40 -0500
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-10-08 13:45 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk> - 2017-10-08 23:52 +0100
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Don Kuenz <g@crcomp.net> - 2017-10-08 23:18 +0000
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-10-08 16:34 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-10-09 13:05 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> - 2017-10-09 14:00 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> - 2017-10-09 19:06 +0000
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> - 2017-10-09 15:47 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens krw@notreal.com - 2017-10-09 21:28 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens John Devereux <john@devereux.me.uk> - 2017-10-10 08:00 +0100
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens krw@notreal.com - 2017-10-10 21:42 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-10-09 14:16 -0500
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> - 2017-10-10 11:07 +0000
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens aioe usenet <hirni47@yahoo.com> - 2017-10-12 05:00 +0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2017-10-08 14:17 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Gerhard Hoffmann <gerhard@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de> - 2017-10-08 23:26 +0200
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Neon John <no@never.com> - 2017-10-08 17:54 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> - 2017-10-09 14:17 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens krw@notreal.com - 2017-10-09 21:35 -0400
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> - 2017-10-08 15:37 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-10-08 15:44 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-10-08 16:01 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-10-08 16:45 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-10-08 16:49 -0700
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Joe Chisolm <jchisolm6@earthlink.net> - 2017-10-09 11:41 -0500
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-10-09 14:13 -0500
Re: Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens speff <spehro@gmail.com> - 2017-10-12 00:32 -0700
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| From | "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 15:40 -0500 |
| Subject | Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens |
| Message-ID | <TsqdnYMQkKvGEEfEnZ2dnUU7-XfNnZ2d@giganews.com> |
Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model T962). My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering iron steady enough to build the boards. This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well enough to make it work. Hope someone can give good advice Dave M
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| From | pcdhobbs@gmail.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 13:45 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <e8cb3820-321a-4ef2-9f1b-28b629f5b6b0@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #480846 |
On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: > Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the > Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil > auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model > T962). > > My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off > projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in > SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a > challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering > iron steady enough to build the boards. > > This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to > make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards > with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently > produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the > Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well > enough to make it work. > > Hope someone can give good advice > > Dave M I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. Cheers Phil Hobbs
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| From | Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 23:52 +0100 |
| Message-ID | <N_xCB.48741$DQ3.41453@fx03.am4> |
| In reply to | #480847 |
On 08/10/17 21:45, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: > On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >> T962). >> >> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >> iron steady enough to build the boards. >> >> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >> enough to make it work. >> >> Hope someone can give good advice >> >> Dave M > > I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. > > Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. For quick-and-dirty prototypes, I use a saucepan containing a thin layer of sand as a heat spreader and to control the heat flow. Contraindicated for PCBs with SMD components on both sides :) Works well, and is cheap/fast enough that you can do experiments to find what works for you, and therefore what you actually /need/.
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| From | Don Kuenz <g@crcomp.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 23:18 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <20171009d@crcomp.net> |
| In reply to | #480847 |
pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: > On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >> T962). >> >> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >> iron steady enough to build the boards. >> >> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >> enough to make it work. >> >> Hope someone can give good advice >> > > I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey > Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. > > Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. Sweet! This means one less footprint in my lab. The aluminum jig plate seems easy enough to fabricate. Is there any particular reason that you use aluminum? My Corning ceramic hot plate comes with a "stir" feature that obviously isn't necessary for reflow. Other than that it has a power button and a rheostat with an internal switch with a knob that's labeled from 0 to 10. So, how do you control your hotplate? Do you use a reflow controller? Or do you just use a thermometer and "eyeball it" until the paste reflows? In regards to the OP's question about the T962 oven, people complain about its fumes. Thank you, -- Don Kuenz, KB7RPU
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| From | Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 16:34 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <095cb15a-5d17-47f7-9549-1f10789837d8@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #480871 |
Den mandag den 9. oktober 2017 kl. 01.18.28 UTC+2 skrev Don Kuenz: > pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: > > On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: > >> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the > >> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil > >> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model > >> T962). > >> > >> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off > >> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in > >> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a > >> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering > >> iron steady enough to build the boards. > >> > >> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to > >> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards > >> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently > >> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the > >> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well > >> enough to make it work. > >> > >> Hope someone can give good advice > >> > > > > I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey > > Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. > > > > Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. > > Sweet! This means one less footprint in my lab. > > The aluminum jig plate seems easy enough to fabricate. Is there any > particular reason that you use aluminum? > > My Corning ceramic hot plate comes with a "stir" feature that obviously > isn't necessary for reflow. Other than that it has a power button and > a rheostat with an internal switch with a knob that's labeled from 0 to > 10. I had to remove the magnet from the hotplate, some components are magnetic, it is "rather annoying" to when all the components you have meticulously placed starts jumping around on the board > > So, how do you control your hotplate? Do you use a reflow controller? > Or do you just use a thermometer and "eyeball it" until the paste > reflows? I just eyeball it and have a stack of books next to the plate to slide the board onto once it has reflowed
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| From | pcdhobbs@gmail.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 13:05 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <271c12a4-318c-4388-b7b2-c2c71a1e6a98@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #480871 |
>The aluminum jig plate seems easy enough to fabricate. Is there any >particular reason that you use aluminum? 200 W/m/K and thick sections available for cheap. I bought the piece from McMaster-Carr iirc. >My Corning ceramic hot plate comes with a "stir" feature that obviously >isn't necessary for reflow. Other than that it has a power button and >a rheostat with an internal switch with a knob that's labeled from 0 to >10. >So, how do you control your hotplate? Do you use a reflow controller? >Or do you just use a thermometer and "eyeball it" until the paste >reflows? I have this really nifty Extech three-channel type K thermocouple thermometer. Beautiful Layout Hunchback and I did some experiments to get the temperature profile right. We also use only leaded paste, which is more forgiving. Cheers Phil Hobbs
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| From | bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 14:00 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad> |
| In reply to | #480847 |
On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: > On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >> T962). >> >> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >> iron steady enough to build the boards. >> >> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >> enough to make it work. >> >> Hope someone can give good advice >> >> Dave M > > I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. > > Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. > > Cheers > > Phil Hobbs > How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a part obviously fail because of it
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| From | Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 19:06 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <orghck$bi3$1@news.datemas.de> |
| In reply to | #480934 |
On a sunny day (Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:00:18 -0400) it happened bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad>: >On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: >> On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>> T962). >>> >>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >>> >>> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >>> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >>> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >>> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >>> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >>> enough to make it work. >>> >>> Hope someone can give good advice >>> >>> Dave M >> >> I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. >> >> Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. >> >> Cheers >> >> Phil Hobbs >> > >How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about >physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? > >I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time >to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate >the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an >anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a >part obviously fail because of it I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait..
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| From | bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 15:47 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <bnQCB.2788$_63.1830@fx12.iad> |
| In reply to | #480939 |
On 10/09/2017 03:06 PM, Jan Panteltje wrote: > On a sunny day (Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:00:18 -0400) it happened bitrex > <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad>: > >> On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: >>> On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >>>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>>> T962). >>>> >>>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >>>> >>>> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >>>> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >>>> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >>>> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >>>> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >>>> enough to make it work. >>>> >>>> Hope someone can give good advice >>>> >>>> Dave M >>> >>> I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. >>> >>> Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Phil Hobbs >>> >> >> How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about >> physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? >> >> I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time >> to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate >> the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an >> anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a >> part obviously fail because of it > > I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones > for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. > Well, I can't say I'm shocked!
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| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 21:28 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <qd8otc5r3ovj183f1cohunbp8q522vara7@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #480939 |
On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 19:06:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> wrote: >On a sunny day (Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:00:18 -0400) it happened bitrex ><bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad>: > >>On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: >>> On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >>>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>>> T962). >>>> >>>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >>>> >>>> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >>>> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >>>> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >>>> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >>>> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >>>> enough to make it work. >>>> >>>> Hope someone can give good advice >>>> >>>> Dave M >>> >>> I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. >>> >>> Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Phil Hobbs >>> >> >>How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about >>physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? >> >>I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time >>to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate >>the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an >>anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a >>part obviously fail because of it > >I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones >for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. That's how we replace parts with center pads. The trick is controlling the hot air so adjacent parts don't go flying.
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| From | John Devereux <john@devereux.me.uk> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-10 08:00 +0100 |
| Message-ID | <87fuarv66i.fsf@devereux.me.uk> |
| In reply to | #480957 |
krw@notreal.com writes: > On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 19:06:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje > <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> wrote: > >>On a sunny day (Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:00:18 -0400) it happened bitrex >><bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad>: >> >>>On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: >>>> On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >>>>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>>>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>>>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>>>> T962). >>>>> >>>>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>>>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>>>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>>>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>>>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >>>>> >>>>> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >>>>> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >>>>> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >>>>> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >>>>> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >>>>> enough to make it work. >>>>> >>>>> Hope someone can give good advice >>>>> >>>>> Dave M >>>> >>>> I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. >>>> >>>> Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. >>>> >>>> Cheers >>>> >>>> Phil Hobbs >>>> >>> >>>How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about >>>physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? >>> >>>I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time >>>to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate >>>the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an >>>anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a >>>part obviously fail because of it >> >>I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones >>for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. > > That's how we replace parts with center pads. The trick is > controlling the hot air so adjacent parts don't go flying. I have done this with a "wall" made from bent copper foil I have around (for some reason that escapes me). For ~$2k you can get a rework station complete with these http://www.jbctools.com/extractors-desoldering-system-product-554-category-9-menu-1.html -- John Devereux
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| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-10 21:42 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <hmtqtc9kupi8ofeifkt3rg55a20l1pdrlf@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #480973 |
On Tue, 10 Oct 2017 08:00:05 +0100, John Devereux <john@devereux.me.uk> wrote: >krw@notreal.com writes: > >> On Mon, 09 Oct 2017 19:06:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje >> <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> wrote: >> >>>On a sunny day (Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:00:18 -0400) it happened bitrex >>><bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in <SOOCB.1038$y63.553@fx14.iad>: >>> >>>>On 10/08/2017 04:45 PM, pcdhobbs@gmail.com wrote: >>>>> On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 4:41:07 PM UTC-4, Dave M wrote: >>>>>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>>>>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>>>>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>>>>> T962). >>>>>> >>>>>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>>>>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>>>>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>>>>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>>>>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >>>>>> >>>>>> This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >>>>>> make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >>>>>> with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >>>>>> produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >>>>>> Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >>>>>> enough to make it work. >>>>>> >>>>>> Hope someone can give good advice >>>>>> >>>>>> Dave M >>>>> >>>>> I use a piece of half-inch aluminum jig plate on top of an old-timey Corning ceramic hot plate, the kind used in chem labs. >>>>> >>>>> Works great and takes up a lot less space than an oven. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers >>>>> >>>>> Phil Hobbs >>>>> >>>> >>>>How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about >>>>physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? >>>> >>>>I've used a regular heat gun on a low setting to do "reflow" from time >>>>to time in a pinch, moving it around quickly so as not to concentrate >>>>the air blast in any one place for too long; it's always a bit of an >>>>anxiety-producing experience but as far as I can tell I've never had a >>>>part obviously fail because of it >>> >>>I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones >>>for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. >> >> That's how we replace parts with center pads. The trick is >> controlling the hot air so adjacent parts don't go flying. > >I have done this with a "wall" made from bent copper foil I have around >(for some reason that escapes me). I keep it around, too. Not sure I could build a dam close enough to save the parts around the chips, though. > >For ~$2k you can get a rework station complete with these > >http://www.jbctools.com/extractors-desoldering-system-product-554-category-9-menu-1.html Haven't seen those. Maybe I should buy a set.
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| From | Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 14:16 -0500 |
| Message-ID | <cIydnWV0NIUyV0bEnZ2dnUU7-QWdnZ2d@giganews.com> |
| In reply to | #480934 |
bitrex wrote: > > How hot do you have to get a SOIC generally before worrying about > physically damaging the package/die/bond wires etc? > For lead-free, I set the peak temp to 247 C. I have a thermocouple that I poke into a through hole in the board, so the controller sets that temp of the actual board substrate. Jon
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| From | Jan Panteltje <pNaOnStPeAlMtje@yahoo.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-10 11:07 +0000 |
| Message-ID | <ori9mf$ht8$1@news.datemas.de> |
| In reply to | #480934 |
>I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones >for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. Found it again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bGb5AOwp44
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| From | aioe usenet <hirni47@yahoo.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-12 05:00 +0700 |
| Message-ID | <orm48o$1rjo$1@gioia.aioe.org> |
| In reply to | #480977 |
On 10/10/17 18:07, Jan Panteltje wrote: >> I have seen a youtube video of a Chinese workshop that replaced memory chips in iphones >> for bigger ones with a heat gun... While U wait.. > > Found it again: > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bGb5AOwp44 > Yes, Shenzhen in China is fantastic for anything electronic. It has been my candy store for over 10 years and I still go there at least twice a year. Coming from Hong Kong it is only ~70 minutes from Kowloon Tong by rail to Lowu. If you don´t have a China Visa you can get a port visa on the Chinese side at the border crossing to Luohu. It is valid for the Shenzhen Economic Zone only and for 3 days. In Luohu you buy a subway token to Huaquiang North (the 5th stop) in Futian district and take any exit that leads to Shennan Blvd North. BINGO! As you look around you will see the big SEG building. Only the lower 2 floor of it are interesting. There about 10 huge buildings full of electronic components and instruments. Looking north from Shennan Blvd they are mostly to the left of Huaquiang Road North. If you only have a day or two you will need to prioritize because the area is vast. There is fairly cheap accommodation on South Huaquiang Road, 10 minutes walk. I am not sure where the shop in the youtube video is. My guess is it´s undergrund right next to the subway station. There are a lot of chip replacers there. ------------------------- OT: First time I passed through Louho was in 1984. It was a 6000 people village. Now it´s over 6 million and rising quickly. Imagine the infrastructure pains: housing, streets, water, electricity, transport, schools, hospitals, police, jails etc. Werner Dahn
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| From | Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 14:17 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <515ltc9af6326vjtjooff7i5mmegndqeg2@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #480846 |
On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:40:58 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote: >My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >iron steady enough to build the boards. With solder paste, if you misalign the component slightly, when the solder reflows, it will magically float into the proper position. >Hope someone can give good advice If you Google for "toaster oven reflow contoller": <https://www.google.com/search?q=toaster+oven+reflow+controller> You'll find a variety of articles on how to modify a toaster oven into a workable reflow oven. For example, here's a list of possible kits: <https://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/favorite-diy-reflow-toaster-oven-controllers/> Here's my version which I use mostly to reflow chronically defective HP Jetdirect network cards: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/BGA%20reflow/index.html> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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| From | Gerhard Hoffmann <gerhard@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 23:26 +0200 |
| Message-ID | <f3vjfsFs7m7U1@mid.individual.net> |
| In reply to | #480846 |
Am 08.10.2017 um 22:40 schrieb Dave M: > Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the > Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil > auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model > T962). > > My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off > projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in > SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a > challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering > iron steady enough to build the boards. > > This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to > make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards > with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently > produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the > Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well > enough to make it work. > > Hope someone can give good advice I have one of these: < https://eleshop.eu/vapour-phase-mini-condens-it.html > Bought it when the manufacturer did not yet have distributors, at a somewhat smaller price. Vapor phase is a completely different game. I'm still trying to recover from the "English manuals" of < http://www.ebay.de/itm/112168145773?ul_noapp=true >, which is a Locky_Z curve tracer: I got some results for JFETs: Some IF3602 pairs: < https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/37321004540/in/dateposted-public/ > Some of the new ones from ON, e.a.: < https://www.flickr.com/photos/137684711@N07/36909661793/in/dateposted-public/ > I had no luck so far with 2N2222. Probably they oscillate happily on the tracer and need base stoppers. cheers, Gerhard
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| From | Neon John <no@never.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-08 17:54 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <gs6ltcddbi7bgh3lijr00eggk03u5h4vad@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #480846 |
On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:40:58 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> wrote: >Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >T962). My concern (mainly because I have no experience with infrared) is that the black chips and components would get hot faster than the shiny pins and solder paste. I have an oven that I built using a tabletop convection oven and a programmable timer. It works great but it's using hot air to do the heating. > >My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >iron steady enough to build the boards. The neat thing about reflow is that if you put the proper amount of paste on each pad, the surface tension of the solder will pull the part or chip in line with the pads. I've developed an unconventional technique for pasting 0.5 mm pin spaced ICs. I put the chip on its back and use my pressure/vacuum paste dispenser to lay a solid stream across each side of the chip. I then hold the chip with some pliers while I wipe the other side with a Q-tip. This removes paste between the pins. Drop the chip in place, populate the rest of the board and reflow. Both my vision and my steadiness of hand have declined over the past few years and this is how I compensated. > >This model seems to be big enough to handle all the boards that I want to >make, so that is a plus. Just wondering if this model produces good boards >with no unsoldered areas, damaged components, etc. If it can consistently >produce good boards, I'll take a chance on one of them. Reading the >Chinglish instructions is scary enough , but maybe I can figure it out well >enough to make it work. That thing is cheap enough that if I didn't already have an oven, I'd buy one just to test it. It would hurt only a little to bin it if it didn't work. John John DeArmond http://www.neon-john.com http://www.tnduction.com Tellico Plains, Occupied TN See website for email address
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| From | bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 14:17 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <L2PCB.4104$VF2.275@fx01.iad> |
| In reply to | #480858 |
On 10/08/2017 05:54 PM, Neon John wrote: > On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:40:58 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> > wrote: > >> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >> T962). > > My concern (mainly because I have no experience with infrared) is that > the black chips and components would get hot faster than the shiny > pins and solder paste. > > I have an oven that I built using a tabletop convection oven and a > programmable timer. It works great but it's using hot air to do the > heating. >> >> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >> iron steady enough to build the boards. > > The neat thing about reflow is that if you put the proper amount of > paste on each pad, the surface tension of the solder will pull the > part or chip in line with the pads. > > I've developed an unconventional technique for pasting 0.5 mm pin > spaced ICs. I put the chip on its back and use my pressure/vacuum > paste dispenser to lay a solid stream across each side of the chip. > > I then hold the chip with some pliers while I wipe the other side with > a Q-tip. This removes paste between the pins. Drop the chip in > place, populate the rest of the board and reflow. Both my vision and > my steadiness of hand have declined over the past few years and this > is how I compensated. Technique I've used occasionally that so far has always seemed to work pretty good for soldering say 14 or 16 pin SOIC "surfboards": Use regular soldering iron and thin 60/40 solder to tin the pads. Put the IC down using tweezers and "tack" the top left and bottom right to the board. Apply pressure on the center of the IC using a jeweler's screwdriver with one hand (wear a protective glove!) while blasting the pins on one side of the IC with hot air from a lightweight heat gun for about 10 seconds, back and forth until you visibly see the solder on the pads go shiny. Remove heat and hold for another 15 seconds or so, then remove pressure and let cool for about a minute. Then repeat for the other side. Then continuity test from the junction of the pin and the package to the hole on the board for the mounting hardware. Meter should beep just from light contact without applying any pressure at all from the probe to the pin. Sometimes there's one pin that didn't quite get a solid connection and won't test for continuity without pushing down a bit, but a single pin is easy to touch up by hand.
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| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-10-09 21:35 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <9n8otc1qmjg3gbvhiiihcotq54tdr8jpla@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #480936 |
On Mon, 9 Oct 2017 14:17:15 -0400, bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote: >On 10/08/2017 05:54 PM, Neon John wrote: >> On Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:40:58 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net> >> wrote: >> >>> Anyone have any experience or have colleagues who have experience using the >>> Chinese-made reflow soldering ovens such as those being sold on the evil >>> auction place? The one I've looked at is item number:262955348183 (Model >>> T962). >> >> My concern (mainly because I have no experience with infrared) is that >> the black chips and components would get hot faster than the shiny >> pins and solder paste. >> >> I have an oven that I built using a tabletop convection oven and a >> programmable timer. It works great but it's using hot air to do the >> heating. >>> >>> My eyes have become the major challenge to producing the one- or two-off >>> projects, since many of the parts that are available today are only made in >>> SMD packages. I realize that placing them onto the board still remains a >>> challenge, but at least with a proper oven, I won't have to hold a soldering >>> iron steady enough to build the boards. >> >> The neat thing about reflow is that if you put the proper amount of >> paste on each pad, the surface tension of the solder will pull the >> part or chip in line with the pads. >> >> I've developed an unconventional technique for pasting 0.5 mm pin >> spaced ICs. I put the chip on its back and use my pressure/vacuum >> paste dispenser to lay a solid stream across each side of the chip. >> >> I then hold the chip with some pliers while I wipe the other side with >> a Q-tip. This removes paste between the pins. Drop the chip in >> place, populate the rest of the board and reflow. Both my vision and >> my steadiness of hand have declined over the past few years and this >> is how I compensated. > >Technique I've used occasionally that so far has always seemed to work >pretty good for soldering say 14 or 16 pin SOIC "surfboards": SOICs are a piece of cake. They're *huge*. >Use regular soldering iron and thin 60/40 solder to tin the pads. Put >the IC down using tweezers and "tack" the top left and bottom right to >the board. Apply pressure on the center of the IC using a jeweler's >screwdriver with one hand (wear a protective glove!) while blasting the >pins on one side of the IC with hot air from a lightweight heat gun for >about 10 seconds, back and forth until you visibly see the solder on the >pads go shiny. Remove heat and hold for another 15 seconds or so, then >remove pressure and let cool for about a minute. Then repeat for the >other side. Remove all solder from all of the pins except one, then tack that pin down and position the part. Go around and solder the rest. Yes, I always use leaded solder (being careful to remove all of the socialist solder from all pads). >Then continuity test from the junction of the pin and the package to the >hole on the board for the mounting hardware. Meter should beep just from >light contact without applying any pressure at all from the probe to the >pin. Sometimes there's one pin that didn't quite get a solid connection >and won't test for continuity without pushing down a bit, but a single >pin is easy to touch up by hand. Your soldering technique needs work if you have to test continuity.
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