Groups | Search | Server Info | Keyboard shortcuts | Login | Register [http] [https] [nntp] [nntps]
Groups > sci.electronics.design > #453060 > unrolled thread
| Started by | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| First post | 2017-03-22 10:18 -0700 |
| Last post | 2017-03-24 09:04 -0700 |
| Articles | 20 on this page of 109 — 22 participants |
Back to article view | Back to sci.electronics.design
ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 10:18 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net> - 2017-03-22 10:32 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 11:23 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:28 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:35 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:15 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:31 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:44 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 16:22 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:37 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 22:25 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 20:06 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:06 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 13:13 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 19:56 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 20:24 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:07 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 22:54 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-23 04:50 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass jurb6006@gmail.com - 2017-03-22 13:24 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 17:11 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass amdx <nojunk@knology.net> - 2017-03-22 16:17 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 15:36 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass gregz <zekor@comcast.net> - 2017-03-24 07:55 +0000
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-24 22:50 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:26 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:49 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:41 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Robert Baer <robertbaer@localnet.com> - 2017-03-22 19:45 -0800
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 13:37 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 10:56 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-22 11:29 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:23 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 13:34 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 14:23 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:50 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkinxyxy@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-24 10:45 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> - 2017-03-25 18:22 +1100
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-25 08:53 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-25 13:05 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-25 16:18 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-25 20:40 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:07 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-26 20:09 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 17:43 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-26 20:50 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-25 16:17 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-25 20:12 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 04:39 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-26 05:17 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 06:03 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-26 09:15 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 10:54 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> - 2017-03-26 18:43 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-27 19:21 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-28 09:30 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> - 2017-03-27 08:11 +1100
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 06:45 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-28 08:08 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 08:48 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:08 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2017-03-26 16:16 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> - 2017-03-26 22:10 +0300
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 06:58 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-28 07:18 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 08:41 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-28 08:13 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-28 16:52 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-28 19:52 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass bill.sloman@ieee.org - 2017-03-28 20:35 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 04:44 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 08:10 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass pcdhobbs@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 09:37 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 10:58 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> - 2017-03-26 16:18 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-26 17:42 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 20:12 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 17:24 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-22 20:46 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:14 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 22:58 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 13:15 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-23 12:10 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 15:28 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-23 14:06 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 20:48 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-23 18:05 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass krw@notreal.com - 2017-03-23 20:31 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-23 15:25 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-23 17:37 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 13:44 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Kevin Glover <kevinfglover@yahoo.com> - 2017-03-22 11:22 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> - 2017-03-22 11:44 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 15:07 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-22 12:19 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 15:51 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Lasse Langwadt Christensen <langwadt@fonz.dk> - 2017-03-22 13:58 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 17:05 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 16:26 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> - 2017-03-22 18:00 -0400
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:30 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> - 2017-03-22 18:29 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 21:16 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Mikko OH2HVJ <mikko.syrjalahti@nospam.fi> - 2017-03-22 21:36 +0200
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-22 12:54 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> - 2017-03-22 14:39 -0500
Re: ot drilling glass alan.yeager.2013@gmail.com - 2017-03-23 18:07 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass tabbypurr@gmail.com - 2017-03-24 04:20 -0700
Re: ot drilling glass John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> - 2017-03-24 09:04 -0700
Page 1 of 6 [1] 2 3 4 5 6 Next page →
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 10:18 -0700 |
| Subject | ot drilling glass |
| Message-ID | <99c5dclhgo996srppuq7s5p3knubqseugf@4ax.com> |
I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that. I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil or water? -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 10:32 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <oauc95$6dr$1@dont-email.me> |
| In reply to | #453060 |
On 03/22/2017 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote: > > > I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped > inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that. > > I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to > use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil > or water? > > Water. Plenty of it, it's not for lubricating, it's for removing heat so you don't kill your cutting tools.
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 11:23 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <352e018a-4868-4200-a1a9-24fefd11ca97@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453067 |
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 1:32:08 PM UTC-4, Bill Martin wrote:
>
> >
> Water. Plenty of it, it's not for lubricating, it's for removing heat so
> you don't kill your cutting tools.
The water also keeps the temperature of the glass near the hole down. You do not want the glass to get hot in a small area. The thermal expansion could crack the glass. Don't know how much of a problem this is, but why chance it.
Dan
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 14:28 -0500 |
| Message-ID | <EoCdnTn616OJTU_FnZ2dnUU7-L2dnZ2d@giganews.com> |
| In reply to | #453084 |
dcaster@krl.org wrote: > On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 1:32:08 PM UTC-4, Bill Martin wrote: >> > >> > >> Water. Plenty of it, it's not for lubricating, it's for removing heat so >> you don't kill your cutting tools. > > The water also keeps the temperature of the glass near the hole down. You > do not want the glass to get hot in a small area. The thermal expansion > could crack the glass. Don't know how much of a problem this is, but why > chance it. Window glass is VERY prone to cracking, it is NOT Pyrex! It doesn't take much localized heating at all to start a crack, especially where you have a big discontinuity like a hole! Jon
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 12:35 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <48k5dc1ad77p32q1e1upj80p61s8fue2me@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453102 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 14:28:22 -0500, Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> wrote: >dcaster@krl.org wrote: > >> On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 1:32:08 PM UTC-4, Bill Martin wrote: >>> >> >>> > >>> Water. Plenty of it, it's not for lubricating, it's for removing heat so >>> you don't kill your cutting tools. >> >> The water also keeps the temperature of the glass near the hole down. You >> do not want the glass to get hot in a small area. The thermal expansion >> could crack the glass. Don't know how much of a problem this is, but why >> chance it. >Window glass is VERY prone to cracking, it is NOT Pyrex! It doesn't take >much localized heating at all to start a crack, especially where you have a >big discontinuity like a hole! > >Jon That's why I got the diamond core drills. The pointy carbide things can crack the glass, especially if you drill near a corner. Dremeling gently takes forever. I just made a very pretty hole close into a corner, with the core drill. Slow revs with water. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 12:15 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <adi5dch877vvqhvme2rg4s2tvc5ldj2its@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453067 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 10:32:03 -0700, Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net> wrote: >On 03/22/2017 10:18 AM, John Larkin wrote: >> >> >> I have some double-pane windows that are getting moisture trapped >> inside. I've found that drilling a little vent hole fixes that. >> >> I got some Amazon chinese diamond core drills. What's the best way to >> use these? Slow with a drill or fast with a Dremel? Lubricate with oil >> or water? >> >> >Water. Plenty of it, it's not for lubricating, it's for removing heat so >you don't kill your cutting tools. Slow with water made a nice little hole, and the cheap core drill wasn't worn down too badly. Well, it might be OK for another hole or two. It usually takes some days, sometimes a week, for the condensation to work its way out. The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows in about 2 hours. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 14:31 -0500 |
| Message-ID | <EoCdnTj616N7TU_FnZ2dnUU7-L2dnZ2d@giganews.com> |
| In reply to | #453095 |
John Larkin wrote: > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows > in about 2 hours. > > > Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe the drill is the right fix for the problem. Jon
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 12:44 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <mkk5dchvfbg85shun7edciv14p15g3vp2j@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453104 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 14:31:52 -0500, Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> wrote: >John Larkin wrote: > > >> The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. >> He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign >> within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows >> in about 2 hours. >> >> >> >Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside >the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might >actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. >I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals >and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe >the drill is the right fix for the problem. > >Jon I've done inside and outside, and both work. Usually I put the hole in a lower corner. Outside has the hazard of rain getting into the hole unless it's under a good overhang. I theorize that outside is better, but have no proof. Inside is usually easier to drill! "One experiment is worth a thousand expert opinions." - Werner Von Braun -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 16:22 -0500 |
| Message-ID | <ppadncciOrlRd0_FnZ2dnUU7-Y2dnZ2d@giganews.com> |
| In reply to | #453109 |
John Larkin wrote: > I've done inside and outside, and both work. Usually I put the hole in > a lower corner. Outside has the hazard of rain getting into the hole > unless it's under a good overhang. > > I theorize that outside is better, but have no proof. Inside is > usually easier to drill! > Most of our thermopanes are removable, so we could do either. I can imagine a little plastic rain shield over the hole, to keep liquid out. Those would be fairly easy to make (I have a machine shop). > "One experiment is worth a thousand expert opinions." Yes, certainly! Jon
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 18:37 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <b0ee1e6f-5daf-4f27-a3ac-5bfc3dda8bab@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453104 |
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:30:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote: > John Larkin wrote: > > > > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. > > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign > > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows > > in about 2 hours. > > > > > > > Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside > the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might > actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. > I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals > and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe > the drill is the right fix for the problem. > > Jon I think on the outside. Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install them.) George H.
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 22:25 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <7bc6dc59vs105skfndh2b1d5ag3e2pc1rq@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453166 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 18:37:39 -0700 (PDT), George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote: >On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:30:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote: >> John Larkin wrote: >> >> >> > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. >> > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign >> > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows >> > in about 2 hours. >> > >> > >> > >> Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside >> the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might >> actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. >> I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals >> and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe >> the drill is the right fix for the problem. >> >> Jon > >I think on the outside. >Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and >install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as >a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install >them.) I replaced a bunch of them about ten years ago. Basically, you remove the window and take it to a glass shop. They have the tools needed to take the frames apart and make the replacement panes. It's not at all hard to do and not really that expensive (about $30 per window, IIRC).
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 20:06 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <c243752d-55c1-4a85-bc7a-eed4591f598e@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453173 |
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 10:25:58 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: > On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 18:37:39 -0700 (PDT), George Herold > <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote: > > >On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:30:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote: > >> John Larkin wrote: > >> > >> > >> > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. > >> > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign > >> > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows > >> > in about 2 hours. > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside > >> the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might > >> actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. > >> I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals > >> and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe > >> the drill is the right fix for the problem. > >> > >> Jon > > > >I think on the outside. > >Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and > >install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as > >a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install > >them.) > > I replaced a bunch of them about ten years ago. Basically, you remove > the window and take it to a glass shop. They have the tools needed to > take the frames apart and make the replacement panes. It's not at all > hard to do and not really that expensive (about $30 per window, IIRC). Right, that makes sense. As long as it's a removable window. My bathroom window has had a hard life, and it might be better to replace the whole thing. (or drill some holes?? JL is doing the exp. I'm waiting at least a year for results.) George H.
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 21:06 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <o9i6dc90e31t0j1q95fedlf6ofbd4oc7sv@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453173 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 22:25:47 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote: >On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 18:37:39 -0700 (PDT), George Herold ><gherold@teachspin.com> wrote: > >>On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:30:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote: >>> John Larkin wrote: >>> >>> >>> > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. >>> > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign >>> > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows >>> > in about 2 hours. >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside >>> the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might >>> actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. >>> I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals >>> and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe >>> the drill is the right fix for the problem. >>> >>> Jon >> >>I think on the outside. >>Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and >>install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as >>a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install >>them.) > >I replaced a bunch of them about ten years ago. Basically, you remove >the window and take it to a glass shop. They have the tools needed to >take the frames apart and make the replacement panes. It's not at all >hard to do and not really that expensive (about $30 per window, IIRC). Sounds like a ton of work. The nearest glass shop might be in Reno. Drilling is easy. I'll have a pro replace the windows if/when necessary. There are old houses with single-pane windows over a hundred years old. These modern 2-pane things fail quickly. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | krw@notreal.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-23 13:13 -0400 |
| Message-ID | <db08dch16pup817b1u3kjss0884q9bgg34@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453185 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 21:06:36 -0700, John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote: >On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 22:25:47 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote: > >>On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 18:37:39 -0700 (PDT), George Herold >><gherold@teachspin.com> wrote: >> >>>On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 3:30:54 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote: >>>> John Larkin wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> > The Renewal by Anderson salescreep wanted $22K to replace the windows. >>>> > He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign >>>> > within 24 hours to get the discount. I washed and drilled the windows >>>> > in about 2 hours. >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Did you drill the inside pane? Seems there is usually more moisture inside >>>> the house than outside (we use a humidifer in the winter), so that might >>>> actually make the problem worse. I've got a couple leaky thermopanes here. >>>> I've thought about pulling the panes out of the frame, re-doing the seals >>>> and then filling with Argon. But, geez, sounds like a LOT of work. Maybe >>>> the drill is the right fix for the problem. >>>> >>>> Jon >>> >>>I think on the outside. >>>Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and >>>install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as >>>a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install >>>them.) >> >>I replaced a bunch of them about ten years ago. Basically, you remove >>the window and take it to a glass shop. They have the tools needed to >>take the frames apart and make the replacement panes. It's not at all >>hard to do and not really that expensive (about $30 per window, IIRC). > >Sounds like a ton of work. The nearest glass shop might be in Reno. Not a lot of work at all. Most panes just lift out, some have screws. Others are more "permanent" and are a problem but that's life. >Drilling is easy. I'll have a pro replace the windows if/when >necessary. It also doesn't work. You've just ruined the insulation properties of the window and it will cloud up again as soon as the temperature/humidity changes. As others have pointed out, any internal film may deteriorate, as well. >There are old houses with single-pane windows over a hundred years >old. These modern 2-pane things fail quickly. Utter nonsense. If they were installed by a hack, perhaps. Properly installed they'll last as long as I need them to.
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 19:56 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <8999df00-049a-424a-8c5e-bfede662248a@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453166 |
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 9:37:48 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote:
>
>
> I think on the outside.
> Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and
> install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as
> a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install
> them.)
>
> George H.
You can buy double pane window glass and put it in your self. I have done that.
I have not tried drilling holes in the glass. But if I did I would drill the inside panel one hole at the top and another at the bottom. And then slowly run inert gas in at the bottom. Water vapor is not as dense as CO2 or Argon. So putting it the inert gas at the bottom and letting air and water vapor out at the top should flush the air and water vapor out. And then seal the holes with some silicone caulk. People use silicone to glue fish tanks together , so should work to seal the holes.
Even if there are leaks in the original seals , it would not be a big deal to pull the silicone out of the holes , flush , and reseal every six or twelve months.
Dan
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 20:24 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <09cf7e52-e949-4258-80fa-55891074ddb4@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453176 |
On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 10:57:02 PM UTC-4, dca...@krl.org wrote: > On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 9:37:48 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote: > > > > > > I think on the outside. > > Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and > > install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as > > a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install > > them.) > > > > George H. > > You can buy double pane window glass and put it in your self. I have done that. > > I have not tried drilling holes in the glass. But if I did I would drill the inside panel one hole at the top and another at the bottom. And then slowly run inert gas in at the bottom. Water vapor is not as dense as CO2 or Argon. So putting it the inert gas at the bottom and letting air and water vapor out at the top should flush the air and water vapor out. And then seal the holes with some silicone caulk. People use silicone to glue fish tanks together , so should work to seal the holes. Dan, have I told you my fish tank, silicone sealant story? (This was GE clear food grade silicon, which was recommended.) ~40 gal. tank, 1/4" thickness, 3' maximum dimension, (No top brace!!) I started filling it in the basement... and kinda forgot it (which is typical of me) I went down and it was ~90% full, at the top the glass was bulging out (in my memory, which could be faulty) several inches on each side.. say 2" over 3'. I didn't stop to measure, but grabbed a bucket and bailed. The silicone held. (I added a top brace.) George H. > > Even if there are leaks in the original seals , it would not be a big deal to pull the silicone out of the holes , flush , and reseal every six or twelve months. > > Dan
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 21:07 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <efi6dc506c8vilgatecr134vkcikakuk9j@4ax.com> |
| In reply to | #453176 |
On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 19:56:58 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> wrote: >On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 9:37:48 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote: >> >> >> I think on the outside. >> Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and >> install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as >> a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install >> them.) >> >> George H. > >You can buy double pane window glass and put it in your self. I have done that. > >I have not tried drilling holes in the glass. But if I did I would drill the inside panel one hole at the top and another at the bottom. And then slowly run inert gas in at the bottom. Water vapor is not as dense as CO2 or Argon. So putting it the inert gas at the bottom and letting air and water vapor out at the top should flush the air and water vapor out. And then seal the holes with some silicone caulk. People use silicone to glue fish tanks together , so should work to seal the holes. > >Even if there are leaks in the original seals , it would not be a big deal to pull the silicone out of the holes , flush , and reseal every six or twelve months. > > Dan Excuse me, but I would call that a big deal. -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 22:54 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <2vudnbQJU4WI_k7FnZ2dnUU7-VudnZ2d@giganews.com> |
| In reply to | #453186 |
On 2017/03/22 9:07 PM, John Larkin wrote: > On Wed, 22 Mar 2017 19:56:58 -0700 (PDT), "dcaster@krl.org" > <dcaster@krl.org> wrote: > >> On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 9:37:48 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote: >>> >>> >>> I think on the outside. >>> Certainly you must be able to buy a double paned window and >>> install it yourself. (I've never done it... and as >>> a youngster I broke plenty of glass panes learning to install >>> them.) >>> >>> George H. >> >> You can buy double pane window glass and put it in your self. I have done that. >> >> I have not tried drilling holes in the glass. But if I did I would drill the inside panel one hole at the top and another at the bottom. And then slowly run inert gas in at the bottom. Water vapor is not as dense as CO2 or Argon. So putting it the inert gas at the bottom and letting air and water vapor out at the top should flush the air and water vapor out. And then seal the holes with some silicone caulk. People use silicone to glue fish tanks together , so should work to seal the holes. >> >> Even if there are leaks in the original seals , it would not be a big deal to pull the silicone out of the holes , flush , and reseal every six or twelve months. >> >> Dan > > Excuse me, but I would call that a big deal. > > Engineers hate doing things over, eh? John
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | "dcaster@krl.org" <dcaster@krl.org> |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-23 04:50 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <b6d3bf12-1a75-446f-a997-e910b811033b@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453186 |
On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 12:07:48 AM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
> >Even if there are leaks in the original seals , it would not be a big deal t Dan
>
> Excuse me, but I would call that a big deal.
>
>
> --
>
> John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
You are certainly entitled to your opinion. _I just see unplugging the holes and flushing out the water vapor and resealing as a lot less effort than drilling the holes. My opinion is probably shaped by my having a bunch of gas cylinders and regulators on hand.
Dan
>
> jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
> http://www.highlandtechnology.com
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
| From | jurb6006@gmail.com |
|---|---|
| Date | 2017-03-22 13:24 -0700 |
| Message-ID | <7d4929d4-54a0-4cf8-af79-eb31f0f5a402@googlegroups.com> |
| In reply to | #453095 |
>"He said that included a 20% discount but, by state law, we had to sign within 24 hours to get the discount." That wins the bullshit of the day award. And 22 grand ? Just how many windows do you have, like 100 ? People cite law all the time in the contracting business, and most of the time they are full of shit.
[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]
Page 1 of 6 [1] 2 3 4 5 6 Next page →
Back to top | Article view | sci.electronics.design
csiph-web