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How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger

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  How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger Ki_Image <Ki_Image.5i1h2h@no.email.invalid> - 2012-08-28 20:46 -0500
    Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger mike <spamme9@gmail.com> - 2012-08-28 20:49 -0700
    Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger AaronL <135sdf6738@fakiemail.com> - 2012-08-28 21:01 -0700
      Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger richgr@panix.com (Rich Greenberg) - 2012-08-29 15:53 +0000
      Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger davy <davy.5i3f5b@no.email.invalid> - 2012-08-29 14:15 -0500
        Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger mike <spamme9@gmail.com> - 2012-08-30 03:25 -0700
          Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger Couturier946 <Couturier946.5ji0pp@no.email.invalid> - 2012-09-26 03:46 -0500
            Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger mike <spamme9@gmail.com> - 2012-09-26 10:05 -0700
        Re: How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger Ki_Image <Ki_Image.5i3zpg@no.email.invalid> - 2012-08-30 00:54 -0500

#1513 — How to open a Dell Power Supply/Charger

Can anyone tell me the 'trick' to opening a Dell power supply/charger?
My old Dell Inspiron 5100 is still plugging along, but it's external
power supply/battery charger isn't. It began only working intermittently
some time ago. Recently it stopped altogether, but would light it's
green 'On' light briefly if I tapped it. Now not even that. Since it
seemed like a faulty connection would be the likely culprit, I tried to
separate the upper and lower halves of the unit, but could not get the
case to open. I'm currently out of the USA, so it will be awhile before
I could get a replacement unit.
The AC wall cord is still in excellent condition, and except for the
strain relief allowing the braided conductor to show through, so is the
output cable to the computer. The P/S is the PA-9 type; 20V, 4.51A,
model PA-1900-05D.

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#1515

On 8/28/2012 6:46 PM, Ki_Image wrote:
> Can anyone tell me the 'trick' to opening a Dell power supply/charger?
> My old Dell Inspiron 5100 is still plugging along, but it's external
> power supply/battery charger isn't. It began only working intermittently
> some time ago. Recently it stopped altogether, but would light it's
> green 'On' light briefly if I tapped it. Now not even that. Since it
> seemed like a faulty connection would be the likely culprit, I tried to
> separate the upper and lower halves of the unit, but could not get the
> case to open. I'm currently out of the USA, so it will be awhile before
> I could get a replacement unit.
> The AC wall cord is still in excellent condition, and except for the
> strain relief allowing the braided conductor to show through, so is the
> output cable to the computer. The P/S is the PA-9 type; 20V, 4.51A,
> model PA-1900-05D.
>
>
most are glued together.  You can't just pry them apart.
You have to fracture the joint...without hurting the
electronics just inside the plastic.

Clamp it in a vise with the seam just above the vise.
Whack it with a hammer on a wood chisel.  Start at a corner.
You want a sharp whack with a fast-moving lightweight hammer.
Slow heavy hammer won't do it.

It's really easy the SECOND time you do it.

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#1516

On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:46:57 -0500, Ki_Image
<Ki_Image.5i1h2h@no.email.invalid> wrote:

>Can anyone tell me the 'trick' to opening a Dell power supply/charger?
>...It began only working intermittently...
>The P/S is the PA-9 type; 20V, 4.51A, model PA-1900-05D.

I don't know how to get one apart, mine look glued together. But why
mess with it. Google that PS number and you will find lots of them for
sale for under $20. Hardy worth messing with it when they're that
cheap.

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#1517

In article <ci4r38tcmooktckgbvkclb6cm49lb88jim@4ax.com>,
AaronL  <135sdf6738@fakiemail.com> wrote:
>On Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:46:57 -0500, Ki_Image
><Ki_Image.5i1h2h@no.email.invalid> wrote:
>
>>Can anyone tell me the 'trick' to opening a Dell power supply/charger?
>>...It began only working intermittently...
>>The P/S is the PA-9 type; 20V, 4.51A, model PA-1900-05D.
>
>I don't know how to get one apart, mine look glued together. But why
>mess with it. Google that PS number and you will find lots of them for
>sale for under $20. Hardy worth messing with it when they're that
>cheap.

Last time I needed to replace one, I found it on ebay.

-- 
Rich Greenberg  Sarasota, FL, USA richgr atsign panix.com  + 1 941 378 2097
Eastern time.  N6LRT  I speak for myself & my dogs only.    VM'er since CP-67
Canines: Val,Red,Shasta,Zero,Casey & Cinnar (At the bridge)   Owner:Chinook-L
Canines: Red & Max (Siberians)     Retired at the beach  Asst Owner:Sibernet-L

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#1521

To open molded cases I uses a Dremel mini tool with either a cut off
disc or s mini saw blade, works a treat, take it easy running along the
seam... expect plastic dust so watch your eyes.

I usually Araldite them together afterwards leaving them held in a clamp
for a few hours.

I don't know about Dell, but the things I've repaired are usually either
switched mode power supplies or the good ol' wall warts with a
transformer, some are heat molded and yet some may have screws in the
base, usually concealed.

The switch-mode variety is usually capacitors that need replacing,
you'll see them bulged at the top or leaking gunge, which must be
cleaned off as it's very corrosive...

or they are usually blown to bits making repair not possible. What
happens here, is the capacitors fail, thus the feedback loop from the
isolated side to the live switched side goes ballistic, so the poor
transistor switches ON harder and harder until it self-destructs causing
major damage... this loop maintains regulation by altering the switching
drive's mark space ratio.

Always use *low ESR 105 deg. C* type capacitors should this be the case,
don't be tempted to use standard 85 Deg. types in switch-mode power
supplies.

Another way to open them is to use a fine hack saw.

DO REMEMBER INSIDE THESE SWITCH-MODE SUPPLIES THERE ARE LETHAL
VOLTAGES[/B] UNLIKE THE TRANSFORMER VERSIONS (AC LINE VOLTAGE X 1.414)
SO IN THE UK  WHICH IS AROUND 240V AC X 1.414 = APPX. 340V DC!!!!! [B]SO
ENSURE IT IS UNPLUGGED FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES.

davy

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#1522

On 8/29/2012 12:15 PM, davy wrote:
> To open molded cases I uses a Dremel mini tool with either a cut off
> disc or s mini saw blade, works a treat, take it easy running along the
> seam... expect plastic dust so watch your eyes.
>
> I usually Araldite them together afterwards leaving them held in a clamp
> for a few hours.
>
> I don't know about Dell, but the things I've repaired are usually either
> switched mode power supplies or the good ol' wall warts with a
> transformer, some are heat molded and yet some may have screws in the
> base, usually concealed.
>
> The switch-mode variety is usually capacitors that need replacing,
> you'll see them bulged at the top or leaking gunge, which must be
> cleaned off as it's very corrosive...
>
> or they are usually blown to bits making repair not possible. What
> happens here, is the capacitors fail, thus the feedback loop from the
> isolated side to the live switched side goes ballistic, so the poor
> transistor switches ON harder and harder until it self-destructs causing
> major damage... this loop maintains regulation by altering the switching
> drive's mark space ratio.
>
> Always use *low ESR 105 deg. C* type capacitors should this be the case,
> don't be tempted to use standard 85 Deg. types in switch-mode power
> supplies.
>
> Another way to open them is to use a fine hack saw.
>
> DO REMEMBER INSIDE THESE SWITCH-MODE SUPPLIES THERE ARE LETHAL
> VOLTAGES[/B] UNLIKE THE TRANSFORMER VERSIONS (AC LINE VOLTAGE X 1.414)
> SO IN THE UK  WHICH IS AROUND 240V AC X 1.414 = APPX. 340V DC!!!!! [B]SO
> ENSURE IT IS UNPLUGGED FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES.
>
> davy
>
>
While that's all very true in general, in particular, for this supply,
the symptoms suggest one of the two primary failure modes related to user
abuse.
1) the solder joints at the AC input fracture where the socket solders onto
the board.
2) the output cable gets shorted or open from repeated flexing
at the box or at the DC output plug.
If it's intermittent, you can often tell which end by flexing while
it's running.

I used to use a TDR to figure out which end was open until I realized
that if the cable decided to reconnect while I had the TDR hooked up,
and there was any charge on the caps, I'd blow up a TDR that originally
cost more than my house.
With technology these days, you can do the same thing with an ordinary
bench pulse generator and scope.

I don't understand this:
The AC wall cord is still in excellent condition, and except for the
strain relief allowing the braided conductor to show through, so is the
output cable to the computer. The P/S is the PA-9 type; 20V, 4.51A,
model PA-1900-05D.

The PA-9 on my 5100 has the standard 3-pin socket at the AC input.
The strain relief and shield that can show thru is on the DC out end.

If the shield is broken, I've fixed 'em by soldering some wires across
the broken part and "potting" the area in hot-melt glue.  But you have
to be very careful not to flex it much after that.

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#1582

I don't know how to get one apart, mine look glued together. But why
mess with it. Google that PS number and you will find lots of them for
sale for under $20. Hardy worth messing with it when they're that
cheap.

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#1586

On 9/26/2012 1:46 AM, Couturier946 wrote:
> I don't know how to get one apart, mine look glued together. But why
> mess with it.

I count 20 reasons without even thinking about it.

Google that PS number and you will find lots of them for
> sale for under $20. Hardy worth messing with it when they're that
> cheap.
>
>

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#1524

Thanks for the tips, guys!
I'll try the light hammer and chisel first. I do have a Dremel, so that
will be my back up plan. I'll be sure to scope out the caps once it's
open.
And yes, a lot of effort for a part that is normally easily replaced,
but as I said, I'm out of the country so it would be sometime in October
at best before any replacement could get to me.

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