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Download Blued For Pc

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  Download Blued For Pc Luminosa Renzullo <luminosarenzullo@gmail.com> - 2024-01-02 16:16 -0800

#84425 — Download Blued For Pc

Generally, "stainless" does not show scratches and holster wear like "blued" revolvers do. However, generally "stainless" are heavier than "blued". Both can rust if not cleaned and oiled sufficiently. I own both. I prefer "stainless" cowboy guns because of the extreme use and abuse they undergo. I prefer "blued" reproductions in keeping with original military historical manufactured models but some models are available in "stainless" as well.



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I prefer blued mainly because of the glare off of the frame and barrel if the sun is just right.Had 66's before and loved em,but at our range the morning sun would be right in your face and sometimes I couldn't see the front sight due to glare.Blued isn't as bad.


My Rugers are bead blasted stainless. I like them cuz they don't seem to get a glare, and I can tell when they are clean easier than my blued ones. When I shoot black powder, I can convince myself that the stainless are better and easier to clean.


I actually have always preferred stainless, but am about to be in the market for a new pair of pistols. One of the things I am considering this time is going with blued guns and have the front sights gold plated, then the engraving starts.... 


Started out shooting black powder and immediately could tell the difference. Even though cleaned just a thoroughly the stainless guns were fine, but the blued or browned guns showed rust somewhere on the gun. I no longer shoot black powder, but have had a fondness for stainless ever since. All of my guns now are stainless and most of the guns I've owned in the past were also stainless. I was tickled pink when Ruger came out with their all stainless, all weather Red Label. I was the only guy on the skeet field with one, but I loved it. Right now my wife has a stainless Lady Smith and I have 3 stainless Rugers I'm building up to leave to each of my children. The last gun is a OM stainless Vaquero that is being slicked up and engraved with my SASS badge scrimshawed on the ivory panels. That gun will be for my wife for her to remember the fun I had in SASS and shooting in general. Smithy.






All of my guns are blued, except one nickle plated .38. Personally I like the blued because it looks more authentic and has less glare. The stainless looks very Hollywood to me. I don't like chrome all over my cars either, so it's just a personal preference.


There are several other bayonets, some on eBay and some on othere militaria sites that look like they may be blued but it is hard to tell and most times I don't get definitive answers from the sellers.


I have one M1905 dated 1920 that is definately parkerized and seems to have an area just in front of the guard where the finish is slightly lighter in color than the rest of the blade. I am assuming that a blued blade would not have this?


Because of the different lighting conditions, and poor tehnique encountered in photographs, it is nearly impossible to determine whether or not a blade is blued or parkerized. As for your 1920 dated M1905, the reason for the color difference you described is that almost all of the 1905 bayonets still in service were re-parkerized. Many people will tell you this was done in preparation for WWII, but this was done in many cases long before the war. The blades were literally dipped into the chemical tanks up to the ricasso, which left its original finish just ahead of the cross guard untouched, thus the two tone appearance. So, when you look at a 1905 bayonet, check that area just ahead of the cross guard. In an excellent photograph, you will be able to see if the blade has been redone or not. A good original blade will have a clearly uniform finish from the cross guard to the end of the blade. I learned from Gary Cunningham's book that 1905 bayonets dated before 1917 will have a bright blade, so if you see a parkerized blade within those dates, then it has been refinished. Now, just to make sure we are still confused, I also learned than some of the early bayonets were blued. In that case, I suppose a great photograph of a mint specimen will show an obviously shiny blued blade, but if the bayonet is even somewhat worn, then it might be very difficult to tell if it is blued or re-parked. Thanks for your time. As always, if I have any of the facts wrong, someone please chime in to correct me. I love learning new stuff in this bazaar hobby in which I find myself.


I would imagine that since the blades were 'bright' prior to WWI and the bluing process was an inter-war technique, that any legitimate blued blade would be significantly shinier than a corresponding parkerized blade?


3. MOST of the blued 1917 and 1918 Model 1905s are a fairly dull blue, sometimes called War Finish Blue. The reason is that the final polishing step was discontinued, so the surface was not as smooth and bright as it would have been had it been fully polished prior to bluing.


4. During World War One some older bayonets were blued. This was not common, and most of those that were "reblued" were done in Europe by US ordnance personnel "using an Italian process". These do not have a high finish blue, rather a fairly dull looking finish. I personally feel that the process was some sort of chemical process that was not polished after finishing as the US blue of the period which was a type of rust bluing referred to in Ordnance literature as "Browning".


It is pretty hard to find a nice clean condition originally blued Model 1905 bayonet. These were used and abused for many years, often refinished, and then large numbers cut down to 10" blade in WW2. In the case of the pre-1917 dated versions, it would be difficult to be sure who blued it and when.


Since the 1917 was blued, then maybe it was stripped in the reprocessing and then refinished similarly to the 1919. That, of course would have to rule out the "scratch lines" reason for the two tone finish. Oh well, I'll leave that for some other time. Thanks again.


I wonder if may piggyback a question about a Model of 1905 I own? As you can see from the pictures it was mfgr'd at the Springfield Arsenal in 1907. I really don't know much about these except what I've gleaned over time, mostly from the 'net. I'm not sure how to provide better pictures than these, taken under good light without a flash. It certainly has been finished in some way and I'm not much of a blade guy but would estimate at least 75% of that finish is present. Now it appears to me to be blued as it does not look like what I think of as Parkerizing, like my Garand or '03-A3, so that's what I've assumed it was. However, after reading this interesting discussion, I'm starting to wonder if that's really the case? Any thoughts?


I've learned a lot from this thread as well. You have a nice bayonet there. Originally, the blade was left without any coloring, but the handle and cross guard was blued. This bluing extended onto the blade just enough to cover the date i.e. about 1/4 of an inch of the blade was blued. Your bayonet does not include this blueing on the blade. It looks to have been polished off. Not too big of a deal, it's still a nice example of an early 1905 bayonet. From your pictures, there does not appear to be any bluing on the blade. You mentioned 75% of finish remaining, not sure what you mean since it appears like a bright blade, not blued. Thanks for showing us.


Hear's a picture of my 1908 dated bayonet. The blade is unblued, the cross guard is worn, but the blued part over the date is what I was explaining earlier. If your bayonet is 70% then it would be much darker. I think your bayonet as well as mine was steel wooled and cleaned, then with age has turned a little gray. Maybe.


Note: for this article, I am going to focus on traditional heat-blued screws. Some brands use screws that are chemically blued or even just painted. Neither of these methods has the same benefit as traditional heat-blued screws.


So with heat-blued screws, the bluing is usually the final part of the heat treatment process. The tempering imparts tangible benefits to the metal aside from the color change. The fact that the screw turns blue is more of a secondary aesthetic benefit. The key reason to heat treat the steel screws is to increase hardness. However, because the initial hardening process makes the part too hard and consequently brittle, watchmakers need to undertake a second step of tempering the part to soften it.


Is stainless really much better than blued? If you clean your rifle after you return do you even need to worry about corrosion? Would an anti corrosive like tuff cloth negate the stainless advantage? How bad does the weather have to be for you to see rusting while in the field and is that type of weather even huntable by the sane?


In my experience a quality blued rifle is much better than a cheap "stainless." I am terrible about maintaining my rifles but I have never had a problem with my blued guns rusting but I have seen some "stainless" not fair as well. The worst finish I have seen is the newer remingtons those things are rusting before you can feel a rain drop.


Most of my firearms are made of the chrome moly blued steel and from what I have seen if taken care of properly they will hold up extremely well. I do like stainless and under certain situations I would prefer it over chrome moly because it is definitely more resistant to corrosion.


I have done several hunting trips in remote areas when my blued rifles got literally soaked day after day. They did rust some, but I cleaned them up as soon as possible, and they are no worse for the wear today. Hunting around home it is not an issue, as I wipe down and dry my firearms daily.


I would be more concerned about a good stock. A synthetic stock gets the nod for back country wet and humidity. I love blued with wood but I would be concerned my wood stock would swell in extremely wet and humid environments and causing my gun to shoot off. My next rifle will be stainless with hogue synthetic stock, not for looks but for functionality. One nice thing about stainless is it can take more shots to heat up the way a blued barrel does.

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