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Re: Welding Gloves

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  Re: Welding Gloves bisonlifeusa <3a2f29cbe4f96678cab13cec9b1c8995@example.com> - 2026-03-26 23:30 +0000
    Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-03-26 20:36 -0500
      Re: Welding Gloves Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> - 2026-03-27 11:13 -0700
        Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-03-27 15:36 -0500
          Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-04-20 21:31 +0100
            Re: Welding Gloves Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> - 2026-04-20 13:59 -0700
              Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-04-20 22:41 -0500
                Re: Welding Gloves Bob La Londe <user16941@newsgrouper.org.invalid> - 2026-04-21 13:42 +0000
              Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-04-23 13:23 -0400
                Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-01 05:06 +0100
                  Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-05-01 06:29 -0400
                  Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-05-01 17:23 -0400
                    Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-02 06:05 +0100
                      Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-02 16:51 +0100
                      Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-05-03 19:08 -0400
                        Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-04 07:42 +0100
                          Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-05-04 07:18 -0400
                  Re: Welding Gloves "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> - 2026-05-01 21:18 -0400
            Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-04-20 22:22 -0500
              Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-01 05:10 +0100
              Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-01 05:14 +0100
                Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-05-01 06:58 -0500
                  Re: Welding Gloves Bob La Londe <none@none.com99> - 2026-05-01 11:11 -0700
                  Re: Welding Gloves Richard Smith <null@void.com> - 2026-05-02 05:28 +0100
                    Re: Welding Gloves Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> - 2026-05-02 07:02 -0500

Page 1 of 2  [1] 2  Next page →

#13878 — Re: Welding Gloves

Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life welding gloves.

-- 
For full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/welding/welding-gloves-51795-.htm

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#13879

On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why they 
> melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from 
> industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better 
> control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life welding 
> gloves.
> 

   Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent tactile 
feel .
-- 
Snag
   I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...

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#13880

On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why they 
>> melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from 
>> industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better 
>> control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life 
>> welding gloves.
>>
> 
>    Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent tactile 
> feel .


I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the Harbor 
Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.

I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I doubt 
anybody makes that.

I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I 
always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves 
prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding 
sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.




-- 
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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#13881

On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why they 
>>> melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves from 
>>> industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for better 
>>> control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison Life 
>>> welding gloves.
>>>
>>
>>    Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent 
>> tactile feel .
> 
> 
> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the Harbor 
> Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
> 
> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I doubt 
> anybody makes that.
> 
> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I 
> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves 
> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding 
> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
> 
> 
> 
> 

   I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost exclusively 
for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap cooling .
-- 
Snag
   I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...

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#13882

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:

> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why
>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
>>>> Life welding gloves.
>>>>
>>>
>>>    Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
>>> tactile feel .
>> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
>> Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
>> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
>> doubt anybody makes that.
>> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding
>> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
>> 
>
>   I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>   exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>  cooling .

Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...

I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.

What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
T-shirt.

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#13883

On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
> 
>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>>>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why
>>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
>>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
>>>>> Life welding gloves.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
>>>> tactile feel .
>>> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
>>> Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
>>> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
>>> doubt anybody makes that.
>>> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
>>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
>>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding
>>> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
>>>
>>
>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>   cooling .
> 
> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
> 
> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
> 
> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
> T-shirt.

I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from 
Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the 
temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about 
temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more 
evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I 
was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.

They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier.  They refrigerate it and 
force it to condense.  Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE 
used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those 
are not human habitable temperatures.

A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher 
heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the 
inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.

I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the 
air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.

Maybe there are breaking points where things change?


-- 
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

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#13885

On 4/20/2026 3:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
>>
>>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>>>>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why
>>>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
>>>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
>>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
>>>>>> Life welding gloves.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>     Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
>>>>> tactile feel .
>>>> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
>>>> Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
>>>> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
>>>> doubt anybody makes that.
>>>> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
>>>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
>>>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding
>>>> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
>>>>
>>>
>>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>>   cooling .
>>
>> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
>> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
>>
>> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
>> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
>>
>> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
>> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
>> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
>> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
>> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
>> T-shirt.
> 
> I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from 
> Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the 
> temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about 
> temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more 
> evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I 
> was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
> 
> I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the 
> air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
> 
> Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
> 
> 

   They're not breaking "points" it's more gradual . You just wake up 
one day and realize that if you can get 3 or 4 hours of work in that's a 
good day .
-- 
Snag
   I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...

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#13886

Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> posted:

> On 4/20/2026 3:59 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> > On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
> >> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
> >>
> >>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
> >>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
> >>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
> >>>>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why
> >>>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
> >>>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
> >>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
> >>>>>> Life welding gloves.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>     Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
> >>>>> tactile feel .
> >>>> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
> >>>> Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
> >>>> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
> >>>> doubt anybody makes that.
> >>>> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
> >>>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
> >>>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding
> >>>> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
> >>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
> >>>   cooling .
> >>
> >> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
> >> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
> >>
> >> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
> >> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
> >>
> >> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
> >> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
> >> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
> >> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
> >> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
> >> T-shirt.
> > 
> > I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from 
> > Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the 
> > temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about 
> > temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more 
> > evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I 
> > was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
> > 
> > I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the 
> > air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
> > 
> > Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
> > 
> > 
> 
>    They're not breaking "points" it's more gradual . You just wake up 
> one day and realize that if you can get 3 or 4 hours of work in that's a 
> good day .

LOL.  That's not the kind of breaking point I was talking about but it also applies.

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#13887

"Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:10s643t$11ks6$1@dont-email.me...

On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
>
>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>   cooling .
>
> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
>
> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
>
> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
> T-shirt.

I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from
Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the
temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about
temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more
evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.

They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier.  They refrigerate it and
force it to condense.  Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE
used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those
are not human habitable temperatures.

A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher
heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the
inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.

I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the
air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.

Maybe there are breaking points where things change?
-- 
Bob La Londe
CNC Molds N Stuff

-----------------------------------

When liquid water is available to evaporate the vapor pressure of water 
increases with rising temperature, as given in a steam table. Water doesn't 
'dissolve' in air, the two ignore each other. Relative humidity is the 
percentage of how much water the air does vs could hold at that temperature.

I looked into this to estimate when I should open the windows instead of 
running A/C to make the house more comfortable, if the night air was cooler 
but damper than inside. It appears that around 60-70F the relative humidity 
decreases ~2.7% for each 1 degree F temperature increase.

My solution for cooler and damper night air is to subtract 1 degree from the 
temperature difference for each 2.5 or 3% RH difference, whichever is 
mentally easier, to compare which is more comfortable. For example if it's 
65F out and 75F in the outdoor air could be 25~ 30% more humid to be equal, 
though if within 5 degrees the minimal benefit isn't worth the fan 
electricity.

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#13888

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:10s643t$11ks6$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
>>
>>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>>   cooling .
>>
>> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
>> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
>>
>> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
>> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
>>
>> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
>> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
>> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
>> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
>> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
>> T-shirt.
>
> I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from
> Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the
> temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about
> temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more
> evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
> was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
>
> They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier.  They refrigerate it and
> force it to condense.  Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE
> used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those
> are not human habitable temperatures.
>
> A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher
> heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the
> inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.
>
> I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the
> air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
>
> Maybe there are breaking points where things change?

Hi there

I missed these responses with being
* busy around the garden
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.

What Jim describes about optimal - at night, open window or run A-C - is
the concept I was trying to convey (and Jim conveys much better).
How much moisture the air * could hold *.

In a foundry where there is a >locally< higher temperature with nothign
else adjusted to create a new equilibrium, the hotter air * could * hold
more moisture and when you perspire that perspiration * does *
evaporate.  So you get the cooling effect of perspiration.  If you were
to mist yourself and your clothes with water, that would presumably help
- and reduce the amount you are covered in salt encrustations from
sweating ?! :-).

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#13891

"Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com... 

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

> "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:10s643t$11ks6$1@dont-email.me...
>
> On 4/20/2026 1:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
>> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
>>
>>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>>   cooling .
>>
>> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
>> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...
>>
>> I was working in Cleveland, Ohio, 25 years ago, and the summers were
>> about 35degC (90-high-something Farenheit?) and 90-something % humidity.
>>
>> What onlookers didn't know seeing me working in that metal casting
>> foundry is that as the temperature goes up the relative humidity must
>> surely go down (same amount of water and the temperature has gone up, so
>> the ability to hold water must go up - which means relative humidity
>> lower?).  For sure if you worked hard you got white salt stains on your
>> T-shirt.
>
> I spent a couple summers in the late 70s and early 80s not to far from
> Cleveland.  (20 miles west in Avon)  It was pretty miserable when the
> temps were in the 90s(F).  I'm not so sure about your comments about
> temp and humidity.  In a wet climate like Ohio you get a lot more
> evaporation from the standing water in higher temps, and in some cases I
> was told they would get was called a self feeding rain.
>
> They don't heat air to dry it in an air drier.  They refrigerate it and
> force it to condense.  Heat at much higher temps closer to boiling ARE
> used for forcing moisture out of desiccant and welding rod, but those
> are not human habitable temperatures.
>
> A dual desiccant chamber air dryer does use heat, but its much higher
> heat to evaporate moisture into the air from the desiccant in the
> inactive chamber, while the other chamber is absorbing moisture.
>
> I think in a wet climate more heat, just means more evaporation into the
> air.  Maybe you were just a lot tougher when you were younger.
>
> Maybe there are breaking points where things change?

Hi there

I missed these responses with being
* busy around the garden
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.

What Jim describes about optimal - at night, open window or run A-C - is
the concept I was trying to convey (and Jim conveys much better).
How much moisture the air * could hold *.

In a foundry where there is a >locally< higher temperature with nothign
else adjusted to create a new equilibrium, the hotter air * could * hold
more moisture and when you perspire that perspiration * does *
evaporate.  So you get the cooling effect of perspiration.  If you were
to mist yourself and your clothes with water, that would presumably help
- and reduce the amount you are covered in salt encrustations from
sweating ?! :-).

--------------------------------
https://evapolar.com/blogs/blog/swamp-cooler-vs-air-conditioner? 

[toc] | [prev] | [next] | [standalone]

#13894

"Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...


I missed these responses with being ...
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.

-------------------------
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_Shovel_Loader

How does the crushed ore get to the end of the track, or the track into the 
pile? Dumping the ore onto the track seems likely to derail the machine.

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#13897

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

> "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...
>
>
> I missed these responses with being ...
> * volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
> dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
> been welded-up)
> * mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.
>
> -------------------------
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_Shovel_Loader
>
> How does the crushed ore get to the end of the track, or the track
> into the pile? Dumping the ore onto the track seems likely to derail
> the machine.

Pardon - not understanding the question well.

Pardon if my best guess is wrong.

As best I understand - you'd be using an Eimco while driving as tunnel
during "development" - while you are taking ore, you are "developing"
into new resource so the mine continues in a quasi-static balance of
extraction and development.

If you are looking to where the tonnages of ore gets onto the tramming
level, that's through "box holes" and down "cousin jack chutes" into the
wagons.  It's a hopper in gravity, with all but the wooden chute being
formed in the rock.  No Eimco there.  All gravity.  This is the whole
concept of "stoping".  Various strategies to do it, but in Cornwall a
lot was "shrinkage stoping".  You drill overhead into the lode with a
"peg-leg".  Then blast to break-up the lode.  The trammers usually
working at night draw off a certain amount of ore down the cousin jack
chutes into the wagons such that the space left is just right for the
stopers coming in the next day to have a couple of metres height to
repeat drill-and-blast.  Hence "shrinkage stoping".  No of this involves
Eimcos.  You only freely draw-off the blasted broken-up ore when the
stopers cannot go any higher because they are just below the previous
deepest level.

Back to the Eimcos and development.
You drill with an air-leg (N.Am. "jack-leg") rock-drill and blast.
One part of your question - never seen it, but you lay channels on the
rails which push up to the blasted material and drive the Eimco down
those channels.  The Eimco back-flips the broken material, probably
mainly "attle" ("deads" - no or not worth bothering with mineral
content), into the wagon behind, and when full is taken away and new
empty wagon there.

As the drive continues, the folk who make box-holes come along and break
into the lode on the upward diagonal.  So that will be some muck to
clear-up.

I heard first hand about this because through a frosted-glass window of
a caravan ("trailer") I saw a vague object and asked if that is an
exploder (for electric detonators - newer more compact version of the
"dynamo" version Wile-e-Coyote frequently uses in the "Roadrunner"
cartoons).  He said yes and showed me.  He was a box-hole maker.  He
joined us for a cup of tea and explained the method, equipment and how
it was used in stoping.
BTW in at least one abandoned mine there's a stope where you are
up-and-down because the ore has been drawn off from down below by the
boxholes, and it wasn't worth pushing the "serations" of piles
in-between into the box-holes, so you get a lot of exercise going
up-and-down along the huge nearly-empty stope.
Down below, the cousin jack chutes are still there.

Hope this is what you sought.

Best wishes

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#13899

Richard Smith <null@void.com> writes:

> "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:
>
>> "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...
>>
>>
>> I missed these responses with being ...
>> * volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
>> dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
>> been welded-up)
>> * mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.
>>
>> -------------------------
>> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rocker_Shovel_Loader
>>
>> How does the crushed ore get to the end of the track, or the track
>> into the pile? Dumping the ore onto the track seems likely to derail
>> the machine.
>
> Pardon - not understanding the question well.
>
> Pardon if my best guess is wrong.
>
> As best I understand - you'd be using an Eimco while driving as tunnel
> during "development" - while you are taking ore, you are "developing"
> into new resource so the mine continues in a quasi-static balance of
> extraction and development.
>
> If you are looking to where the tonnages of ore gets onto the tramming
> level, that's through "box holes" and down "cousin jack chutes" into the
> wagons.  It's a hopper in gravity, with all but the wooden chute being
> formed in the rock.  No Eimco there.  All gravity.  This is the whole
> concept of "stoping".  Various strategies to do it, but in Cornwall a
> lot was "shrinkage stoping".  You drill overhead into the lode with a
> "peg-leg".  Then blast to break-up the lode.  The trammers usually
> working at night draw off a certain amount of ore down the cousin jack
> chutes into the wagons such that the space left is just right for the
> stopers coming in the next day to have a couple of metres height to
> repeat drill-and-blast.  Hence "shrinkage stoping".  No of this involves
> Eimcos.  You only freely draw-off the blasted broken-up ore when the
> stopers cannot go any higher because they are just below the previous
> deepest level.
>
> Back to the Eimcos and development.
> You drill with an air-leg (N.Am. "jack-leg") rock-drill and blast.
> One part of your question - never seen it, but you lay channels on the
> rails which push up to the blasted material and drive the Eimco down
> those channels.  The Eimco back-flips the broken material, probably
> mainly "attle" ("deads" - no or not worth bothering with mineral
> content), into the wagon behind, and when full is taken away and new
> empty wagon there.
>
> As the drive continues, the folk who make box-holes come along and break
> into the lode on the upward diagonal.  So that will be some muck to
> clear-up.
>
> I heard first hand about this because through a frosted-glass window of
> a caravan ("trailer") I saw a vague object and asked if that is an
> exploder (for electric detonators - newer more compact version of the
> "dynamo" version Wile-e-Coyote frequently uses in the "Roadrunner"
> cartoons).  He said yes and showed me.  He was a box-hole maker.  He
> joined us for a cup of tea and explained the method, equipment and how
> it was used in stoping.
> BTW in at least one abandoned mine there's a stope where you are
> up-and-down because the ore has been drawn off from down below by the
> boxholes, and it wasn't worth pushing the "serations" of piles
> in-between into the box-holes, so you get a lot of exercise going
> up-and-down along the huge nearly-empty stope.
> Down below, the cousin jack chutes are still there.
>
> Hope this is what you sought.
>
> Best wishes

Looked up Ozark on maps - good place to be by the look of it.
Yes not a Harley "Monster"-Glide or a Honda "Lead"wing ;-)

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#13900

"Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m15x56h03v.fsf@void.com... 

> * volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...

https://www.cornishmineimages.co.uk/cornish-mines-underground-1/ 

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#13901

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

> "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m15x56h03v.fsf@void.com... > *
> volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...
>
> https://www.cornishmineimages.co.uk/cornish-mines-underground-1/ 

Yes.
Abandoned mine exploring is said to happen here...
Not as I have met any who would take me along even if I wanted to...

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#13902

"Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1ik934qwd.fsf@void.com...

"Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

> "Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m15x56h03v.fsf@void.com... > *
> volunteering contributions at the hobby mine ...
>
> https://www.cornishmineimages.co.uk/cornish-mines-underground-1/

Yes.
Abandoned mine exploring is said to happen here...
Not as I have met any who would take me along even if I wanted to...
----------------------
I have the equipment and have practiced climbing up and down a rope but 
don't trust my skill and coordination enough to climb higher than I'm 
willing to risk falling. As a kid I read that a paratrooper landing is like 
falling from 15-20 feet and I had to try it, repeatedly. That may have 
caused or contributed to my lifelong back, knee and foot problems. I claim I 
feel like a teenager because the same places still hurt. Now I use the 
climbing gear only to work on the roof antennas, solar panels and wood stove 
chimney.
https://www.cmcpro.com/c/ascenders/
https://www.industrialsafetyproducts.com/frontline-rosu02ss-stainless-steel-permanent-use-roof-anchor/?
They go under and extend beyond the ridge cap. Winter snow here can be heavy 
enough to collapse roofs unless shoveled.

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#13895

"Richard Smith"  wrote in message news:m1a4uj4vuf.fsf@void.com...

>* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.

The horsepower, pulley and belt design section of this may be useful to you:

https://www.fpl.fs.usda.gov/documnts/misc/cirsaw.pdf

This afternoon I watched a small country sawmill in operation, how the logs 
are clamped, cut and rotated. Each log is different and the operator has to 
be quite skilled to get the best results. Their process is much faster than 
mine to produce standard lumber sizes but not as suited to making the best 
use of a hardwood log that will be cut into multiple different sized planks 
and beams according to its flaws for specific uses.

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#13884

On 4/20/2026 3:31 PM, Richard Smith wrote:
> Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> writes:
> 
>> On 3/27/2026 1:13 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
>>> On 3/26/2026 6:36 PM, Snag wrote:
>>>> On 3/26/2026 6:30 PM, bisonlifeusa wrote:
>>>>> Many “100% cotton” gloves are actually blends, which is why
>>>>> they melt; the solution is to source verified pure cotton gloves
>>>>> from industrial suppliers or switch to thin TIG leather gloves for
>>>>> better control, and for reliable protection you can consider Bison
>>>>> Life welding gloves.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     Tillman , I like their 25BS gloves . Very thin for excellent
>>>> tactile feel .
>>> I like the Tillman bicep length gloves for heavy welding, or the
>>> Harbor Freight TIG gloves for decent feel.  Both are leather.
>>> I'd actually like a bicep length TIG glove for TIG welding, but I
>>> doubt anybody makes that.
>>> I like the bicep length because I don't weld often, and for safety I
>>> always wear short sleeve shirts in the shop. The bicep length gloves
>>> prevent welding sunburn on my arms.  I do have some canvas welding
>>> sleeves, but they just feel funny and bother me.
>>>
>>
>>    I have a heavy cotton long sleeve shirt that I use almost
>>    exclusively for welding . When it's hot I can wet it for evap
>>   cooling .
> 
> Thanks for explaining how you can weld in hot places.
> Damp your clothes and get evaporative cooling...

   I learned that trick on a motorcycle forum ... I never thought it 
would get too hot to ride , but in The South it sure does !
-- 
Snag
   I appreciated foreign cultures more
when they stayed foreign ...

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#13889

Hi there

I missed these responses with being
* busy around the garden
* volunteering contributions at the hobby mine (have Eimco 12b - need to
dismantle it and get it down the shaft and some bolted connections have
been welded-up)
* mind caught up on a line of thought about rock crushers.

What Jim describes about optimal - at night, open window or run A-C - is
the concept I was trying to convey (and Jim conveys much better).
How much moisture the air * could hold *.

In a foundry where there is a >locally< higher temperature with nothign
else adjusted to create a new equilibrium, the hotter air * could * hold
more moisture and when you perspire that perspiration * does *
evaporate.  So you get the cooling effect of perspiration.  If you were
to mist yourself and your clothes with water, that would presumably help
- and reduce the amount you are covered in salt encrustations from
sweating ?! :-).

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